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11/24/00 12:17:13 AM, "Smoke" <Smoke@...> wrote:

>Another way is to mount a boring bit in the spindle (fixed so the

spindle

>won't turn), mount the dial with the hole vertical and use the

mill quill

>down feed. Down feed can be set to a fixed stopping point, making

all lines

>exactly the smae length. The point on the boring tool acts as a

"shaper"

>for scribing the lines. Saw that one a long time ago in the "Home

Shop

>Machinist".
>
>No need for turning down thedial after scribing the lines...but

you may need

>to remove burrs.
>
>Smoke
>
>>A weird way of doing it - more labor but less messing with a

sometimes

>>frustrating chemical process -
>>
>>Assuming you want even markings on the edge (turned, not faced)
>>of a cylinder.
>>
>>Use brass, not aluminum or steel! (Aluminum reacts violently,

haven't

>>tried steel, but it shouldn't work, as it's ferric chloride

etchant)

>>
>>Mount a sharpie pen in the spindle of mill.
>>
>>Mount cylinder centered in dividing head or vertical rotary

table.

>>
>>Align pen over centerline in Y (turn off motor, obviously)
>>
>>Adjust spindle height.
>>
>>Run X up to a stop, making a mark.
>>
>>Index head.
>>
>>Repeat.
>>
>>etch in PC board etchant. This will leave metal where there is a

line.

>>
>>Fancy ways -
>>
>>Make dial of aluminum. Instead of pen use small dia. V cutter and

lock

>spindle height.
>>A flame tip burr works good, as it makes a deep, narrow groove.
>>Make grooves.
>>Mix dye into epoxy (available where fiberglass supplies are sold

as gelcote

>dye) and
>>coat your dial with colored epoxy.
>>
>>Turn dial down until the lines are suitably thin.
>>
>>A coat of clear gloss acrylic will protect the shiny look.
>>
>
>
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