Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Sherline spindle lock was Re: Rich's penholder[Spindle lock needed]

ballendo,
OK, now yer cookin with gas!
That's it! Surely there's plenty-0-meat in the corners. The front left
or just forward of the head lock access hole will be my choice.
A 1/4" pin shank is ok but, I would turn the end down to 3/16" dia
for matching holes in the pulley. Leave a small pip on the end for
as a spot punch to mark the pulley.
Has anyone out there (that's not busy packing for NAMES) ever had a
looksee inside of the housing?
A good drill press is all this well take.
Rich D.

ballendo@... wrote:

>
> Hi,
>
> Okay, I DID say it was a quick thought. Looks like the idea I just
> presented won't work for lack of room around the pulley.
>
> So, A much better, but more difficult to implement, would be:
>
> The pulley covers the spindle housing at the corner where we can
> drill a hole for a sliding rod, which will again engage hole(s) in
> the pulley.
>
> Looking at a s/l lathe, we're talking about the upper left corner of
> the housing, as you sit in front of the lathe ready for use.
>
> So we remove the pulley, and drill a 1/4 hole about 1-1/4 inch deep
> in the corner of the housing (which will be under the pulley, when
> same is re-installed). Now we mill a small slot on the side of the
> housing which intersects the drilled hole for an "actuating"
> and "locking" screw.
>
> This will be like the old style sliding cabinet and gate latches.
>
> Now we make short 1/4 inch dia. pin. Turn down the end to 1/8 or so
> (means the "matching" holes in the pulley will be 1/8). Then cross
> drill and tap 6-32 (you might be able to use 10-32, which would keep
> the mod consistant with other sherline standards, but I'm away from
> the shop, so I can't measure now. If so, you'd mill a 3/16 slot)
>
> To reassemble:
>
> Drop the 1/4 rod in the hole, and turn it so the threaded hole can be
> seen in the slot. Screw a socket head cap screw into the 1/4 pin.
> This is the actuator AND lock for the pin. Tighten the screw so the
> 1/8 part of the pin is "sticking up" and put a little lipstick on the
> end.
>
> Replace the pulley, which will be marked by the lipstick. Drill the
> pulley hole(s) as per my previous message. Reinstall the pulley and
> you are done!
>
> You could put a "wavy" washer under the head of the screw for some
> friction, so you don't have to ALWAYS lock it down to prevent
> vibration from "engaging" it unintentionally.
>
> You could also turn down more of the actuating pin to 1/8, thread th
> top of the 1/4" hole and put a "drilled thru" threaded collar at
> thetop of the hole. Under this would be a spring to keep the pin
> retracted.
>
> This should be pretty slick!
>
> Down side is that you'll need another tool to mill the slot/drill the
> hole since your spindle is "inoperable" <g> at the time.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Ballendo