Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Drives (boards) needed for small steppers,suggestions?

For a antibacklash nut here is one proposal.
If you can translate it into bronce pieces then "Guten Appetit"
I posted it a few month ago.:
Good Luck
Sven Peter





Hello Rick here comes the Hamburger-Hotdog design,

I'll better compare it this way to save me some time to make a sketch
and scan it with the fax.
But imagine that your nut is round and sliced in the middle like a
hamburger.
In spite of meat you put a sausage in the middle. Which is the screw.
The springs squeeze the nut half's together like your hands the bread.
And the cylinder is like a can you stuff your hamburger into. It
wouldn't let the nut come out
horizontally but allows to compense misalignments in the rotary axis and
height.

The sausage would break, so chop out some material from the can's wall.
We forgot mustard or ketchup (oil)? Drill through the top of the can
until the
sausage a hole. Normally I countersink the hole on top of the upper part
of the
nut. As well that I fit a small piece of felt in the hole to keep dirt
out of
the nut.

You like Hamburger out of phosphor bronze and steel?
Good appetite!

I hope this helps.
Sven Peter

"Rich D." wrote:

> Sven,
> It looks as tho you have something very useful here, but I am having great difficulty
> visualizing what you describe.
> Could you upload a drawing or sketch to the group's "Files" on Yahoo?
> Regards, Rich D.
>
> "Sven Peter, TAD S.A." wrote:
> >
> > Hey Smoke,
> > there is a much better way to get rid of back lash.
> > What you propose always will have the back lash as soon you force the nut.
> > I apply frequently the self adjusting system my italian lathe has. (Last time adjusted 4 years ago:
> > back lash in the beginning 0,01mm, now 0,04mm on radius)
> > Ok: where you screw normally the nut to the cross way, you put an accurate cylinder with
> > slots were the screw passes through.
> > The acme nut you make has to be sloppy on the screw and has to have the groove tip narrower than normal. The out side form is
> > cylindrical and has to fit perfectly in this cylinder.
> > Out side of the thread from the top you make 2 or 4 threads passing through, drill open until the height of the thread and

counter

> > bore the diameter of the head of the allan screws nearly to the depth of the drilled part ( about 4 or 5 mm less). Until now you

> > part the nut horizontally on the center line of the thread with a saw type slot mill (width 2,5 to 3,5mm depending on the size

of

> > the scew). Don't forget a oil hole.
> > The nut you assemble with springs below the allan screw heads. After playing a little you find out what is the right spring

pressure

> > and all backlash that will be left is the play between the nut outside and the capture cylinder. The nut moves smooth and will
> > collapse on the worn parts of the screw.
> >
> > Of cause you are able to use the same system on a normal screw. And this is not invented it is working really good.
> >
> > Good luck
> > Sven Peter

Donald Brock wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I just picked up on 4 astrosyn unipolar (6 wire) steppers real cheap
> ($4.40 each including shipping on an e-bay auction). They are in the
> 70-80 oz.in. range, 5V 1A and I want to use them to base a small
> gantry style engraver on. I'm not out to do any milling with these,
> just engraving.
>
> Although they are unipolar I want to preferably drive them in bipolar
> mode. I'm now looking for some drives to match up with the motors.
> The cheaper I can get them the better.
>
> This is just a little side line project I'm doing on the side from my
> g320/servo system. I've already got a fistfull of 1/2-10 ACME ss
> screw stock and I've figured out a way to make anti-backlash nuts
> from bearing bronze for this cheap engraver. The slides will be home
> built.
>
> Any suggestions as to where I can pick up some low cost drives would
> be most appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Donald Brock
>
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