Re: Cinci Ballscrews - part II

Brad Heuver wrote:

> From: "Brad Heuver" <bheuver@...>
>
> I've been looking more at the B'port conversion. Jon, thanks for the
> input, most of my questions to date have been answered. Upon looking at
> the clearance between the X-axis screw and the bottom of the table
> casting, it appears that there is not the required 1.5+ inches I need to
> package the nuts as is. Its close, so maybe a more careful meaurement
> will show that all is well... More info on the nuts: The 8 holes are
> axial, and held 1/4" bolts, axially mounting the nut to the mounting
> block. The nut itself appears to be at least 5 pieces. On either end,
> there are small (3/16" cap diameter) cap screws axially placed, that
> seem to hold either the nut ends or a seal block in place. The larger,
> center section, with the mounting holes, has two roll pins through it
> axially, in between two of the bolt holes. There are no other visible
> fasteners. So the 5 pieces are the two ends, and the pieces that make up
> the center, in a sandwich. The center section, is about 1 1/2" long
> axially, and in the middle piece, two of the bolt holes are broken
> through to the outside. It appears this was to let excess grease exit
> the assy, around the bolt shank in a radial direction. If I needed to, I
> could probably machine part of this center section away, as it appears
> to only be a mounting flange, the entrance to the interior, the grease
> exit, would allow chips to possibly enter the assy, however, and would
> require some extra care. If this is just a housing, and the real nut is
> inside, it would help out the mounting...

Yup, I suspect that this IS a mount, and a separate, smaller, nut is
actually inside. But, of course, I can't say for sure.

> As an aside, I've got the X-axis screw out of the B'port, and will
> either slide the table out of the way, or remove it to better evaluate,
> and measure the packaging of the nuts as is. Thanks for the info so far!

Well, it probably isn't good for the machine, but I slide the table until
it completely exposes the yoke assembly, to do work in there. I have
yet to make a fixture to allow me to take the table completely off.
I need to do this, as it is in need of some scraping.

Jon