Servo Motor Shaft Modification

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "John Stevenson" <john@s...>

>
> Conversion was very easy.
> I stripped it down, removed the front bearing and built the shaft

up with weld then machined this back

> down to 16mm to suit the pulley that's going on it.
> Bearings are 17mm so anything under that isn't a problem. I also

took the oppertunity to extend the

> shaft by weld by 1/2" or so.
> I scrapped the original pressed steel front mounting and turned a

new 5/8" thick alloy plate up to

> carry the bearing, two thru bolts and 4 tapped holes to match up

with the bridgy.


John Stevenson said "Conversion was very easy".

John. What in the world would have been a difficult conversion? I
have read this post from you about 10 times in the last couple of
days. It sounds like you did everything but rewind the motor. And
how in the world did you do it? When I think about the practical
problems involved, it seems to me to be one of those things that
can't be done! You must be a super genius with a team of master
machinists helping you (well ok I am being a little facetious) but
holy cow.

1 When welding up the shaft it must have been glowing red. How did
you keep the wiring on the armature from burning up.

2 After welding and adding 1/2 inch shaft length you would not have
been able to turn the shaft back down by mounting it between
centers. How did you get the shafts to turn true.

3 What sort of welding did you use.

4 Did you make the brush holder adjustable for optimal running in
forward and reverse?


Wally



--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "John Stevenson" <john@s...>

>
> I have obtained two new units here in the UK same as the 10-1783

but I can only find two at 110volt.

> problem is we don't have 110 volt here.
> I can get a couple of 240 volts ones and it would be worth trying

one of these.

>
> Conversion was very easy.
> First the bracket was cut and ground off.
> I stripped it down, removed the front bearing and built the shaft

up with weld then machined this back

> down to 16mm to suit the pulley that's going on it.
> Bearings are 17mm so anything under that isn't a problem. I also

took the oppertunity to extend the

> shaft by weld by 1/2" or so.
> I scrapped the original pressed steel front mounting and turned a

new 5/8" thick alloy plate up to

> carry the bearing, two thru bolts and 4 tapped holes to match up

with the bridgy.

>
> I used a 500 count 'D' shaper HP encoder on the rear.
> I faced the rear housing yo to get a flat surface and made a bush

to centralise the mounting plate.

> The mounting plate has two mounting patterens, a two opposed hole

pattern and a 120 degree pattern.

> I used the 120 degree pattern as the 2 hole one overlaps the

bearing hole.

> I drilled and tapped three 2mm screw holes and fitted the back.
> The armature was supported in a steady on the rear bearing and a

1/4" cut off the length of the short extension.

> The rest was turned down to 1/4" diameter for the encoder to clamp

to.

> The motor was reassembed, the encoder cliped on and secured and it

was then reay to run.

> It works very well, very little cogging but at the moment it's

limited to a 24v power supply

>