Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Casting clearance WAS Re: sherline Ballscrews (Yes, you CAN!) But I wouldn't.
Posted by
Ron Ginger
on 2000-10-12 06:38:58 UTC
Anne Ogborn wrote:
acme form screw thread, with the groove only 1/32" wide. Would dunking
the screw in molten wax leave a uniform coating on the sides of the
thread?
And how would I control the thickness, remember we are trying to make a
nut here with the lowest possible clearance- thats the whole point of
the exercise.
I suspect the Philadelphia Resins stuff may have actually expanded a bit
after I removed it. It was about 12 hours from pour to removal, then
another 2-3 hours before I got around to trying to refit the parts. Is
it possible the epoxy expanded? Maybe I should not have tried to remove
it for more like 24 hours.
I am going to switch to the 10tpi rod. and I may try towax dunk a piece.
What kind of wax would be best here?
ron
>The problem with any wax coating is that the thing I need to coat is an
> If you decide to do this, I've got the wax and routinely pour it.
> I could try making a "thin sheet", but my experience is that
> the wax is too viscous as a liquid to do this well.
>
> You're better off just shooting it with something a la mold release,
> or even melting some wax and brushing it on.
>
acme form screw thread, with the groove only 1/32" wide. Would dunking
the screw in molten wax leave a uniform coating on the sides of the
thread?
And how would I control the thickness, remember we are trying to make a
nut here with the lowest possible clearance- thats the whole point of
the exercise.
I suspect the Philadelphia Resins stuff may have actually expanded a bit
after I removed it. It was about 12 hours from pour to removal, then
another 2-3 hours before I got around to trying to refit the parts. Is
it possible the epoxy expanded? Maybe I should not have tried to remove
it for more like 24 hours.
I am going to switch to the 10tpi rod. and I may try towax dunk a piece.
What kind of wax would be best here?
ron