Acme Thread- opinions?

Steve,

I'd order the screw from someone like Ballscrews and Actuators in San
Jose, CA. Then you KNOW what you're getting... Shipping will add some
cost, but the prices you were quoted seem roughly 'in line' with
theirs. I'd use a Bronze nut with 'hardware store' acme. Buy two and
it will be pretty easy to 'rig' a non-backlash nut (if you need it).

If you can live with a 4-6 inch Z travel, the least expensive route
may be to use a cheap import XY drill press vise. MaxNC suggested
this in their $65 'plans'. (they use TWO; one for XY, the other for Z)

Replace the gib screws with REAL screws :-). MaxNC replaced the
original vise acme leadscrews with 1/4-20 threaded rod and coupling
nuts.The coupling nuts are held INSIDE the cast 'nuts of the xyvise
with setscrews. Don't laugh, it works rather well, all things
considered! Size 23 motors have a 1/4 inch shaft so the coupling is
easy also...

If you need more Z travel, consider a SECOND XY table from enco...
Just Mount it on a column.

I've seen machines which used a cheap drill press as the Z,
but 'won't' recommend it.

Hope this helps.

Ballendo (Eyes,Mine Can't see square)

or (Everyone equally Makes Cuts Squarely) :-)

>OK, some rank beginner questions, to break up the "monotony" of all
>these E=MC2 topics. ;')

>I've ordered an XY mill/drill table from Enco and have some 150 oz-in
>steppers to bolt on it. I still need something for the Z axis, best
>bet seems to be for me to build it myself.
>A local nut and bolt store (Tacoma Screw- really, it isn't a put-
>down) gave me a price on Acme threaded rod of $13 a foot for 1/2
>inch 10tpi, and $6.50 for the "nut". Is that good, or bad? What kind
>of questions should I ask to make sure this is better than the
>average carjack Acme thread? For instance, should the nut be bronze
>or some other specific metal?
>Steve G