Re: help for a newbie
Posted by
ksprayberry428
on 2002-08-28 03:58:49 UTC
Wohoo! I finally got it!I just backed up and did exactly what Caudlet
says below and I found the problem. No Signal. I was trying to use a
ISA Parallel port card that was stuck in the computer. I wasn't
getting anyting from it. I took out that card and tried the other
port built into the board and it worked. I built my own little logic
probe just like you said. I dropped by radio shack on the way home
and bought the led and a resistor and mounted them on a little board
with a terminal block. It worked perfectly.
Thanks again for the help. I did notice that the motor turned much
slower than what I thought it would, and I could make it start
missing steps with my hand. These are 475 iz-in steppers. That makes
me curious. I do believe I have a lot of tuning to do.
Thanks again for all the help!
Kelly Sprayberry
says below and I found the problem. No Signal. I was trying to use a
ISA Parallel port card that was stuck in the computer. I wasn't
getting anyting from it. I took out that card and tried the other
port built into the board and it worked. I built my own little logic
probe just like you said. I dropped by radio shack on the way home
and bought the led and a resistor and mounted them on a little board
with a terminal block. It worked perfectly.
Thanks again for the help. I did notice that the motor turned much
slower than what I thought it would, and I could make it start
missing steps with my hand. These are 475 iz-in steppers. That makes
me curious. I do believe I have a lot of tuning to do.
Thanks again for all the help!
Kelly Sprayberry
>Test
> Okay, here's some things to try:
>
> DO THESE TESTS WITH THE GECKO's DISCONNECTED FROM THE COMPUTER.
>
> Build yourself a poor man's logic probe. Use an LED with a 470 ohm
> resistor (yellow-violet-brn) soldered to either leg of the LED.
> the "probe" by connecting it with the Anode to the +5 supply sourceto
> and the Cathode to Ground (small insulated clip leads can help
> here) . If it lights you have connected everything right. Failure
> light might indicate the LED is backwards. If you get realtime.
> industrious you can use two seperate leds hooked up with resistors.
> Then you can monitor both step and direction signals at the same
>one
> Now, leave the Anode(s) connected to to +5 and the cathode(s) to
> of the signal lines (step and/or direction) on the appropriate pin(s)
> of the parallel port. You might want to use a breakout card (ifyou
> have one) or an old DB25 connector to make the hookup easier. Firethe
> up your control program on the computer and do some slow jogs on
> axis where you have the LED. With the DIRECTION pin you should seeon.
> the LED go off and on in a steady state as you change the direction
> of the jog. The glow should be bright and steady when it comes
> If no change in the lamp, make sure your software is setup for theas
> correct PC port (normally hex378 - LPT1)and you have correctly
> defined the pins for that output signal. If the LED does not glow
> brightly as when it was connected directly across the +5 thensuspect
> that your parallel port pin definitions between step and directionerratically)
> have been switched (normally causes the motor to rotate
> or that your parallel port is not able to "sink" enough current toshould "twitch"
> properly drive the Optoisolators in the Gecko's.
>
> The STEP pins will glow less bright because they are being pulsed.
> If they do not change state when you jog then you are not getting
> signal to that pin.
>
> To test the input of the Gecko's: Apply motor power with a motor
> connected. Connect the seperate + 5 and ground (from the +5 source)
> to the correct INPUT pins. Disconnect the signal (step and
> direction). With a clip lead on the direction pin of the Gecko
> momentarily ground the pin to the ground from the +5 source THIS IS
> NOT THE GROUND FOR THE MOTOR POWER SUPPLY. The motor
> each time you ground the step pin. The direction may not beif
> predictable but it proves the GECKO is probably fine and will run
> given the correct level of signals.
>
> All of this becomes easier to do if you have test equipment but
> simple voltmeters can be hard to read correctly. A scope is handy
> but most guys don't have that type of equipment laying around.
>
> Since the optoisolator is just an LED and a light sensitive
> transistor the little rig I describe allows you to "see" the signal
> that normally happens inside the opto.
>
> Let us know if you still are having problems.
Discussion Thread
ksprayberry428
2002-08-26 18:47:04 UTC
help for a newbie
Robert Campbell
2002-08-26 19:32:37 UTC
Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] help for a newbie
ksprayberry428
2002-08-26 19:49:01 UTC
Re: help for a newbie
caudlet
2002-08-27 08:09:55 UTC
Re: help for a newbie
Tim Goldstein
2002-08-27 09:37:27 UTC
Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] help for a newbie
Emory Smith
2002-08-27 10:12:10 UTC
RE: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] help for a newbie
ksprayberry428
2002-08-27 10:19:28 UTC
Re: help for a newbie
JJ
2002-08-27 11:10:19 UTC
RE: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] help for a newbie
Alan Marconett KM6VV
2002-08-27 11:24:31 UTC
Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] help for a newbie
ksprayberry428
2002-08-27 13:17:54 UTC
Re: help for a newbie
ksprayberry428
2002-08-28 03:58:49 UTC
Re: help for a newbie
turbulatordude
2002-08-28 05:56:17 UTC
Re: help for a newbie
Emory Smith
2002-08-29 16:26:15 UTC
RE: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] help for a newbie