Re: flat spring, silver solder, was Re: router for sheet metal

Hi Tim,

Thanks, then I've remembered WRONG (not the first time) AGAIN! I think
the StayBrite is what we used on my son's job.

Yes, I took to screwing a thin sheet of spring brass (of some scrap
sort) through the "hole" I wanted in the part, and let the CNC mill cut
around. The inside corners which I NEED square (affects the spring
action) couldn't, of course, come out square! I used a file on 'em.
Still not happy with them yet. Difficult to hold part down by ONE small
screw for milling!

Alan KM6VV

Tim Goldstein wrote:

>
> My part also had holes. Drill first and then mill it out. I never could have
> done it if it wasn't for CNC.
>
> Odd temperature range on the solder. I am familiar with soft silver like
> StayBrite that is in the 450°F range and then hard silvers that go from
> 1100 - 1500 °F. Never heard of material in that middle range.
>
> Tim
> [Denver, CO]
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > Hi Tim,
> >
> > Thanks for the suggestion on the carpet tape. No pocketing, although
> > there is one hole to be drilled. And on the silver solder, I was up at
> > the P.R.I.M.E. show and Rudy K. was telling me about making the
> > crankshaft for a steam engine, and he said (If I recall correctly) 600
> > degree silver solder. I had my wife pick up "silver solder" at a local
> > welding supply, and it turns out to be nothing more then "silver
> > bearing" solder. Worked nice for a brass project for my son, but I
> > don't think it is up to holding a crank shaft together! I recall Ron G.
> > (might have been on the Sherline list) saying that this was the WRONG
> > "silver solder" as well. I recall using a silver colored rod to "silver
> > solder" some stuff when I was in high school (also needed a paste flux),
> > but I haven't seen that stuff since. I think the crank shaft has to
> > hold up to machining after being soldered.
> >
> > Alan KM6VV