Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: flat spring, silver solder, was Re: router for sheet metal

Hi Alan,

Any madel engineering or jewellery supplier will sell you silver solder. It
is available in several different grades / melting points and various
qualities for jewellery work - i.e. grades which will come up to hallmarking
standards.
For what you need, you should ask for 'Easy Flow' solder which comes as No.
1 or No. 2 grade depending on melting point. When you are doing a
multi-stage project it is normal to do the first soldering with a high
melting point solder and then use a progressively lower melting point solder
at each successive stage so that the earlier stuff doesn't get unstuck.
To use silver solder you need to use a blowlamp and special (Easy Flow) flux
which is basically borax. You also need to make sure that the surfaces you
are joining are close fitting and are very clean.

Best wishes,
Ian
--

Ian W. Wright
Sheffield, UK


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----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Marconett KM6VV" <KM6VV@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 9:02 PM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: flat spring, silver solder, was Re: router
for sheet metal


> Hi Tim,
>
> Thanks for the suggestion on the carpet tape. No pocketing, although
> there is one hole to be drilled. And on the silver solder, I was up at
> the P.R.I.M.E. show and Rudy K. was telling me about making the
> crankshaft for a steam engine, and he said (If I recall correctly) 600
> degree silver solder. I had my wife pick up "silver solder" at a local
> welding supply, and it turns out to be nothing more then "silver
> bearing" solder. Worked nice for a brass project for my son, but I
> don't think it is up to holding a crank shaft together! I recall Ron G.
> (might have been on the Sherline list) saying that this was the WRONG
> "silver solder" as well. I recall using a silver colored rod to "silver
> solder" some stuff when I was in high school (also needed a paste flux),
> but I haven't seen that stuff since. I think the crank shaft has to
> hold up to machining after being soldered.
>
> Alan KM6VV
>
> Tim Goldstein wrote:
> >
> > Not hard to machine at all if it is just a cut out and not any
pocketing.
> > Just take your stock and stick it to a spoil board with some carpet
tape.
> > Then machine away. Pocketing that thin is a bxtch because you have to
get
> > the piece perfectly level. I have milled parts out of .010" brass that
were
> > about .100" x .400".
> >
> > When you way high temp silver solder what heat range are you talking? If
it
> > is in the 1100 - 1200 ° F range than you can always use jewelers silver
> > solder. Your local welding supply store is also a good bet.
> >
> > Tim
> > [Denver, CO]
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
> > > Hi Tony, Alex,
> > >
> > > I have a similar need. A small flat spring for a digitizer probe I
> > > built. I need a small flat spring made out of something like phosphor
> > > bronze, or steel. .006" thick (??). But as it's only about .5" long,
> > > it's a little hard to machine! Glueing/soldering it down to PCB
> > > material might work. I will need a tiny endmill to mill it out, I can
> > > generate the Gcode easily enough. I was also thinking that this flat
> > > spring could also be made by EDM, although I have no equipment for
this!
> > >
> > > Perhaps glueing/soldering to PCB material would work in you case too
> > > (let me know!).
> > >
> > > Pix at:
> > >
> >
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO/files/Digitizer%20Probe/ProbeS
> > pring2.jpg
> > >
> > > Look under files / Digitizer Probe / ProbeSpring2.jpg
> > >
> > > Alan KM6VV
> > > P.S. MSC doesn't carry silver solder (high temp)? Anyone have a
> > > source? I've got crankshafts to fabricate!
> >
>
>
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