Re: How do I 'make' a ballscrew antibacklash nut?

Thanks Ray.

My work envelope at one shot is rarely over 6" anyway. Would that
justify .001 screws and anti-backlash? I'd like to be accurate over
6" within a couple thou if practical.

Final goal is to make mini running engines, and probably a full size
engine too. The 'Griz' doesn't seem too bad overall - better quality
that the lathe anyway. (both are brand new).

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "Raymond Heckert" <jnr@a...> wrote:
> Ball screws are practically anti-backlash, nevertheless,
> FYO, you'd basically put the two nuts back-to-back, and
> screw them together, until they almost 'bind'. now you have
> a backlash-free nut. Of course, you wouldn't really mount
> them back-to-back, you'd mount each 'back' to either side
> of a mounting plate, and use spring washers to 'pre-load'
> the screws, allowing some 'give' under severe pressures,
> instead of making it a 'hard' mechanical back-to-back
> interface. With a Grizzly, and 0.004"/ft screws, I'd not
> bother with the antibacklash, as 'machine slop' coupled
> with the 0.004"/ft will be the real test for your system.
> 'Less'n, of course, you're looking for some REAL accurate
> work.
>
> RayHex