Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Routers
Posted by
Steven Ciciora
on 2004-05-30 07:54:05 UTC
I use the orange $39.95 Harbor Freight trim router (frequently on sale for
$19.95). I bought it because I wanted to start out cheap, and so far it's
been good enough. I made my own 1/8" collet, but the runout seems to vary
depending how I install my collet. Probably a burr inside the router. I
saw a web page somewhere showing how you could grind the inside of the trim
router to true it up, but can't find the link now.
What I mostly use that machine for is machining and drilling front and back
panels for electronics enclosures, and baseplates. The accuracy I need is
not all that great, so it's always been 'good enough'. I use used carbide
PCB drill bits, mostly 3/32" dia, and 1/16" when I need tighter corners. I
sometimes use a 1/4" carbide end mill when I need to remove metal fast. At
30krpm, boy do the aluminum chips fly! I use a variac when I need to
reduce the speed, but for small carbide cutters, it seems you can't spin
fast enough.
When cutting aluminum with small high speed drill bits, coolent is a
_must_. I use Kool Mist, watered down 4 Oz to 1 galof water, in a spary
bottle. Without coolent, the aluminum melts and gums up.
_Someday_, I'll buy a name brand router. Think and Tinker
(www.thinktink.com, same company as www.Precisecut.com) use to sell a
rebuilt router with a precision 1/8" collet for less than the cost of the
router new, but I can't find it on their web site anymore. Last time I
checked they only sold the collet, but now I can't find even that. You may
find this link interesting:
http://www.precisecut.com/tutorials/spindle_runout.htm
Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.
- Steven Ciciora
At 08:36 PM 5/29/2004 -0500, you wrote:
$19.95). I bought it because I wanted to start out cheap, and so far it's
been good enough. I made my own 1/8" collet, but the runout seems to vary
depending how I install my collet. Probably a burr inside the router. I
saw a web page somewhere showing how you could grind the inside of the trim
router to true it up, but can't find the link now.
What I mostly use that machine for is machining and drilling front and back
panels for electronics enclosures, and baseplates. The accuracy I need is
not all that great, so it's always been 'good enough'. I use used carbide
PCB drill bits, mostly 3/32" dia, and 1/16" when I need tighter corners. I
sometimes use a 1/4" carbide end mill when I need to remove metal fast. At
30krpm, boy do the aluminum chips fly! I use a variac when I need to
reduce the speed, but for small carbide cutters, it seems you can't spin
fast enough.
When cutting aluminum with small high speed drill bits, coolent is a
_must_. I use Kool Mist, watered down 4 Oz to 1 galof water, in a spary
bottle. Without coolent, the aluminum melts and gums up.
_Someday_, I'll buy a name brand router. Think and Tinker
(www.thinktink.com, same company as www.Precisecut.com) use to sell a
rebuilt router with a precision 1/8" collet for less than the cost of the
router new, but I can't find it on their web site anymore. Last time I
checked they only sold the collet, but now I can't find even that. You may
find this link interesting:
http://www.precisecut.com/tutorials/spindle_runout.htm
Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.
- Steven Ciciora
At 08:36 PM 5/29/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>How many of you are using routers for cutting metal? Can you get enough
>accuracy from a router? I've been using a Rotozip in my mill to test
>the mill, but definitely need something better for making the parts I
>want to make. Right now most of my parts will be wood, so the router
>will be more than enough. Eventually I plan to cut some aluminum parts.
> I'm wondering if a router can hold a decent tolerance.
>
>I did cut some aluminum with the Rotozip and a 1/4" endmill. I was
>making 1mm deep passes. The part did not need any accuracy to speak of.
> The biggest problem with the Rotozip is that the collets are not
>straight. A router would give much more power, but how are the spindles?
> And can 1/8" collets be had?
>
>Another note. I have been using a Minarik DC motor control to adjust
>the speed of the Rotozip when cutting stuff like foam. All of these
>types of power tools use universal motors which operate on AC or DC.
>They can be had on Ebay for 20-40USD.
>
>Greg Kamysz
>Crystal Lake, IL
>
>
>
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Discussion Thread
Alan Marconett
2004-05-29 15:21:46 UTC
Modulynx stepper driver
Gregory Kamysz
2004-05-29 18:31:28 UTC
Routers
caudlet
2004-05-30 07:01:45 UTC
Re: Routers
Steven Ciciora
2004-05-30 07:54:05 UTC
Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Routers
Gregory Kamysz
2004-05-30 08:31:29 UTC
Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Routers