Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Digest Number 4152

Mike: A few years ago, I had a problem with the Sargon DRO on my lathe.
The guy I talked to was very helpful, and the parts (reader board) weren't
all that expensive. I can look up the phone if you don't have your inst
booklet.
Howard Springer hdspringer4@...

----- Original Message -----
From: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2005 12:10 PM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Digest Number 4152


>
> There are 25 messages in this issue.
>
> Topics in this digest:
>
> 1. ballscrew question,
> From: "mark_anthony123" <mark_anthony123@...>
> 2. Linear DRO Scales who sells?
> From: "mike71ghia" <mike71ghia@...>
> 3. Re: table top cnc machine........for pcb
> From: "turbulatordude" <dave_mucha@...>
> 4. RE: Linear DRO Scales who sells?
> From: Andy Wander <awander@...>
> 5. Jeff's mill drill
> From: "len_tikular" <george@...>
> 6. INFO REQUEST
> From: "aa5wg" <aa5wg@...>
> 7. Re: Jeff's mill drill
> From: "turbulatordude" <dave_mucha@...>
> 8. Re: ballscrew question,
> From: "David A. Frantz" <spinwizard@...>
> 9. Re: ballscrew question,
> From: "Henrik Olsson" <henrik-olsson@...>
> 10. Re: INFO REQUEST
> From: "David A. Frantz" <spinwizard@...>
> 11. Re: ballscrew question,
> From: "turbulatordude" <dave_mucha@...>
> 12. Backlash
> From: "Blue" <jo001k1132@...>
> 13. Powersupplies...1 for ea. axis or can I share ??
> From: "Mike Mueller" <mueller914@...>
> 14. Plasma table
> From: "mr_peja" <mr_peja@...>
> 15. Re: Electrocraft E670 spin test
> From: Jon Elson <elson@...>
> 16. Re: Plasma table
> From: "Robert Campbell" <bob@...>
> 17. Re: Backlash
> From: Jon Elson <elson@...>
> 18. Re: INFO REQUEST
> From: Chuck Pool <aa5wg@...>
> 19. Fw: motor ?
> From: "Bruce Pigeon" <bwpigeon@...>
> 20. Re: Jeff's mill drill
> From: "len_tikular" <george@...>
> 21. Re: Mutilated mouse DRO (using Microsoft PS2 Mice)
> From: "m0nkey0ne" <m0nkey0ne@...>
> 22. RE: Re: Mutilated mouse DRO (using Microsoft PS2 Mice)
> From: "William Carrothers" <wcarrothers@...>
> 23. Re: Backlash
> From: "Blue" <jo001k1132@...>
> 24. Re: Low cost 3D scanner Kits
> From: "sharkloves46" <sharkloves46@...>
> 25. RE: Re: Jeff's mill drill
> From: "AbbyKatt" <cnc@...>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 04:14:29 -0000
> From: "mark_anthony123" <mark_anthony123@...>
> Subject: ballscrew question,
>
>
>
> hi, do ballscrews have to be supported at both ends? Is there a
> certain length or rule of thumb? I was thinking of the z-axis for a
> homemade cnc router and the whole travel is only about 6 inches.
> what about a 20" travel, the most the screw would be hanging out at
> the end is 10". support it? I was looking at a mill/drill plan and
> I did not see pillow blocks on the free end. Thanks Mark.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 07:51:39 -0000
> From: "mike71ghia" <mike71ghia@...>
> Subject: Linear DRO Scales who sells?
>
>
>
> I am looking for a replacement scale for my sargon DRO. I'm not at it
> right now but it only uses a five pins in a DB 25 connector. I bumped
> it and broke the glass and photo encoder board inside. Anyone know of
> where to get etched glass segments .0005 or .001 res and photo
> electric heads to fix these? Know of a cheaper alternative most
> retailers want an arm and leg. I see a lot on e-bay but not with a
> db25, could most these be adapted? I have an o-scope and intend to
> look at the signal line on the other unbroken axis figuring there
> can't be much more than voltage ground and signal? Any insite or good
> websites to point me at will also be apreciated.
> Thank you for replys.
> Mike
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 10:52:54 -0000
> From: "turbulatordude" <dave_mucha@...>
> Subject: Re: table top cnc machine........for pcb
>
>
> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, JanRwl@A... wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 2/8/2005 7:57:15 A.M. Central Standard Time,
>> dave_mucha@y... writes:
>>
>> I think the exchange rate is horrible so it costs a lot more right
>> now that is might.
>>
>>
>>
>> Built the entire thing yourself! See my second photo
> in "Homebrew..." in
>> PHOTOS section of CCED group. Jan Rowland
>>
>
> Nice machine, but nothing at all like the Zoltar.
> Have a look at http://www.rcmodels.net/cnc/hobby/classic.html
>
> The Zoltar is made of all sheetmetal and interlocking parts.
>
> Go thru the guided tour link on the bottom of the page to see how it
> is assembled.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 06:29:15 -0500
> From: Andy Wander <awander@...>
> Subject: RE: Linear DRO Scales who sells?
>
> Lot's of info on both the cheao Chinese scales and some of the quadrature
> devices over at the Shumatech group here on yahoo. There are some "Jenix"
> scales that seem to be inexpensive and may do what you need.
>
> Andy Wander
> Verrex Corporation
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mike71ghia [mailto:mike71ghia@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2005 2:52 AM
> To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Linear DRO Scales who sells?
>
>
>
>
> I am looking for a replacement scale for my sargon DRO. I'm not at it
> right now but it only uses a five pins in a DB 25 connector. I bumped
> it and broke the glass and photo encoder board inside. Anyone know of
> where to get etched glass segments .0005 or .001 res and photo
> electric heads to fix these? Know of a cheaper alternative most
> retailers want an arm and leg. I see a lot on e-bay but not with a
> db25, could most these be adapted? I have an o-scope and intend to
> look at the signal line on the other unbroken axis figuring there
> can't be much more than voltage ground and signal? Any insite or good
> websites to point me at will also be apreciated.
> Thank you for replys.
> Mike
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Addresses:
> FAQ: http://www.ktmarketing.com/faq.html
> FILES: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO/files/
> Post Messages: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
>
> Subscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Unsubscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> List owner: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-owner@yahoogroups.com, wanliker@...,
> timg@...
> Moderator: pentam@... indigo_red@... davemucha@...
> [Moderators]
> URL to this group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO
>
> OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
> If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
> aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it
> if
> you have trouble.
> http://www.metalworking.com/news_servers.html
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jobshophomeshop I consider this to be a
> sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for
> OT
> subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.
>
> NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
> DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
> bill
> List Mom
> List Owner
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 13:49:14 -0000
> From: "len_tikular" <george@...>
> Subject: Jeff's mill drill
>
>
> I'd like to get in touch with Jeff. He has some pictures of his
> Mill/drill conversion in the 'Photos' section.
>
> Jeff maybe you could help me convert my Eagle25.
>
> Thanks
>
> George
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 14:20:50 -0000
> From: "aa5wg" <aa5wg@...>
> Subject: INFO REQUEST
>
>
>
> Hello to all. I am a rookie and need some help please. What are the
> top three benchtop CNC verticle mills, benchtop CNC lathes,
> controllers, DRO and software to run the above? I have searched for
> the above and found much. However, I do not have the experience or
> education to differ the junk from the higher end tools. Thank you to
> all.
> Chuck Pool/AA5WG
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 16:15:50 -0000
> From: "turbulatordude" <dave_mucha@...>
> Subject: Re: Jeff's mill drill
>
>
> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "len_tikular" <george@p...>
> wrote:
>>
>> I'd like to get in touch with Jeff. He has some pictures of his
>> Mill/drill conversion in the 'Photos' section.
>>
>> Jeff maybe you could help me convert my Eagle25.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> George
>
>
> Hi Gerorge, Dave here.
>
>
> If Jeff doesn't reply, just review the list, get PGOFFLINE and pull
> down the whole list so you can review it for each of yoru questions.
>
>
> Check out a few other sites.
>
> http://www.homecnc.info/ballscrew.htm
>
> for screws replacement.
>
> and
>
> http://truetex.com/ymount.htm
>
> for mounting motors
>
> Much of this is straight forward cut and paste stuff.
>
> Pick your strong suit, mechanical stuff, electronics, whatever and
> start with that.
>
> My one word of caution is to make sure that when one thing goes in,
> it does not interfere with another.
>
>
> There are other lists as well.
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/
>
> If you are one of those guyse who likes to read every bit possible,
> you may find that a 3-ring binder and print out all this stuff.
> Seperate into sections.
>
> If the last couple years of on-line searching, I think I can safely
> say I have forgotten more web sites than most people can remember.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 12:30:07 -0500
> From: "David A. Frantz" <spinwizard@...>
> Subject: Re: ballscrew question,
>
> Hi Mark;
>
> Nope you don't need to support at both ends in all cases. Please note
> the word ALL. In fact in some cases unless your alignment is
> spectacularly good it may do more harm then good.
>
> Dave
>
>
> On Wed, 2005-02-09 at 04:14 +0000, mark_anthony123 wrote:
>>
>>
>> hi, do ballscrews have to be supported at both ends? Is there a
>> certain length or rule of thumb? I was thinking of the z-axis for a
>> homemade cnc router and the whole travel is only about 6 inches.
>> what about a 20" travel, the most the screw would be hanging out at
>> the end is 10". support it? I was looking at a mill/drill plan and
>> I did not see pillow blocks on the free end. Thanks Mark.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Addresses:
>> FAQ: http://www.ktmarketing.com/faq.html
>> FILES: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO/files/
>> Post Messages: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
>>
>> Subscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> Unsubscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> List owner: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-owner@yahoogroups.com, wanliker@...,
>> timg@...
>> Moderator: pentam@... indigo_red@... davemucha@...
>> [Moderators]
>> URL to this group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO
>>
>> OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
>> If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
>> aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it
>> if you have trouble.
>> http://www.metalworking.com/news_servers.html
>>
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jobshophomeshop I consider this to be a
>> sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for
>> OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.
>>
>> NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
>> DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
>> bill
>> List Mom
>> List Owner
>>
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 18:39:50 +0100
> From: "Henrik Olsson" <henrik-olsson@...>
> Subject: Re: ballscrew question,
>
> Hi,
>
> Don't know about a rule of thumb but I know that my 16mm (~5/8") screw for
> my Z-axis whipped WAY to much for my liking without a support a the lower
> end.. It's about 500mm (~19") long. You may get away your 6 inches
> depending
> on the diameter of the screw and the speed you turn it. If it's not too
> much
> problem, put that bearing in there. That's my opinion.
> Good luck!
> /Henrik Olsson.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "mark_anthony123" <mark_anthony123@...>
> To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2005 5:14 AM
> Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] ballscrew question,
>>
>> hi, do ballscrews have to be supported at both ends? Is there a
>> certain length or rule of thumb? I was thinking of the z-axis for a
>> homemade cnc router and the whole travel is only about 6 inches.
>> what about a 20" travel, the most the screw would be hanging out at
>> the end is 10". support it? I was looking at a mill/drill plan and
>> I did not see pillow blocks on the free end. Thanks Mark.
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 12:47:29 -0500
> From: "David A. Frantz" <spinwizard@...>
> Subject: Re: INFO REQUEST
>
> Hi Chuck;
>
> It is sort of like this many of these machines come from the same
> manufacture. For example many of the 9x20 lathes are known to come
> from the same plant. That doesn't mean that all of them are exactly
> the same, just that many are re-badged according to resellers wants.
>
> As to junk that is really in the eye of the beholder. For many there
> is an expectation that the machine purchased will look a little
> different after they are done with it. That may mean simple
> modifications or CNC conversions.
>
> Some of the manufactures such as Rong Fu do have a good reputation.
> But there is still the matter of fitting the hardware to your needs.
>
> Dave
>
>
> On Wed, 2005-02-09 at 14:20 +0000, aa5wg wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hello to all. I am a rookie and need some help please. What are the
>> top three benchtop CNC verticle mills, benchtop CNC lathes,
>> controllers, DRO and software to run the above? I have searched for
>> the above and found much. However, I do not have the experience or
>> education to differ the junk from the higher end tools. Thank you to
>> all.
>> Chuck Pool/AA5WG
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Addresses:
>> FAQ: http://www.ktmarketing.com/faq.html
>> FILES: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO/files/
>> Post Messages: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
>>
>> Subscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> Unsubscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> List owner: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-owner@yahoogroups.com, wanliker@...,
>> timg@...
>> Moderator: pentam@... indigo_red@... davemucha@...
>> [Moderators]
>> URL to this group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO
>>
>> OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
>> If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
>> aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it
>> if you have trouble.
>> http://www.metalworking.com/news_servers.html
>>
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jobshophomeshop I consider this to be a
>> sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for
>> OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.
>>
>> NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
>> DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
>> bill
>> List Mom
>> List Owner
>>
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 17:49:44 -0000
> From: "turbulatordude" <dave_mucha@...>
> Subject: Re: ballscrew question,
>
>
> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "David A. Frantz"
> <spinwizard@f...> wrote:
>> Hi Mark;
>>
>> Nope you don't need to support at both ends in all cases. Please
> note
>> the word ALL. In fact in some cases unless your alignment is
>> spectacularly good it may do more harm then good.
>>
>> Dave
>
> I agree and disagree.
>
> If you have a 6 inch screw that is 10 times longer than the diameter
> it will be hard to spin it fast enough to see any flexing.
>
> I just picked the 10:1 ratio, it probably is different, but when you
> have a 4 inch overhang of a 1/8 screw, (64:1) and spin it as high
> RPM, ANY imballance will cause some deflection promoting vibration
> and a further imbalance.
>
> At low RPM the lenght/dia ratio could go higher without a problem.
>
> The two Z's on my unit are 1/2-10 ACME and overhang about 4 inches.
> (8:1) I don't spin over 1,000 RPM and have never experianced a
> problem.
>
> I think that at some ratio, the far end bearing will have little
> effect as the shaft can bend to allow for any miniscule misalignment
> whereas a short shaft would impart heavy pressures in any
> misalignment. If you can flex it by hand, you must support it.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, 2005-02-09 at 04:14 +0000, mark_anthony123 wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > hi, do ballscrews have to be supported at both ends? Is there a
>> > certain length or rule of thumb? I was thinking of the z-axis for
> a
>> > homemade cnc router and the whole travel is only about 6 inches.
>> > what about a 20" travel, the most the screw would be hanging out
> at
>> > the end is 10". support it? I was looking at a mill/drill plan
> and
>> > I did not see pillow blocks on the free end. Thanks Mark.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 18:16:20 -0000
> From: "Blue" <jo001k1132@...>
> Subject: Backlash
>
> Hi Group,
>
> It has been a long time since I posted or read anything from this group,
> and
> then it was under another email address. I've been doing other things.
>
> I have a problem with my CNC lathe in that the adjustment of backlash on
> the
> cross-slide is impossible to get right and I'm looking for a cheap working
> solution that doesn't require a complete redesign.
>
> The leadscrew is Acme and the nuts, there are two of them, are bronze. The
> front nut is fixed and the rear one can be unlocked and allowed to move to
> take up the backlash. The nuts appear to be forced apart by a ball under
> pressure from dished washers acting like a spring.
>
> I do not want to fit ballscrews at this stage and the leadscrew has no
> wear.
> Does anyone know or have a design of anti-backlash device that would make
> adjustment much easier and predictable.
>
> Regards,
>
> Terry
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 18:47:51 -0000
> From: "Mike Mueller" <mueller914@...>
> Subject: Powersupplies...1 for ea. axis or can I share ??
>
>
> Machine:
>
> BP series 1 w/Boss 3 controls
>
> Instead of using a 3-phase converter, I'd like to install all brand
> new electronics and toss out the Boss3 stuff.I plan on running the
> stock 8 wire stepper motors with Geckos, from what I have read, 76vdc
> is needed make them run smooth. Can I just use one powersupply if
> it's rated at 10amp/80vdc ? (220 single ph input)
>
> thanks,
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 19:01:15 -0000
> From: "mr_peja" <mr_peja@...>
> Subject: Plasma table
>
>
> Hello,
> I need reccomendation on witch programs to use for driwing my new
> future plasma table (arranged by price)
> Peja
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 15
> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 13:09:43 -0600
> From: Jon Elson <elson@...>
> Subject: Re: Electrocraft E670 spin test
>
> squideclipse wrote:
>
>> Mounted the E670 motor to the lathe and spun at two different rates.
>> It produced 17.8 volts @710 rpm , 24.9 volts @1030 rpm. I am not sure
>>of the accuracy of the pully combinations . Produces a Kv of 25v/Krpm.
>>A Kt of 1.351 * Kv =33.775 ozin/amp. Where to from here?
>>
>>
> Well, if you need 2000 RPM from this motor, you will have to have a power
> supply of 50 V plus a bit for the armature resistance.
>
> If you need 500 Oz-In of torque, you'd need 500/33.775 = 14.8 Amps.
>
> What linear force do you need to apply to the machine table? What maximum
> rapid traverse rate dou you need? What is the leadscrew type and pitch?
>
> Jon
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 16
> Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 13:09:10 -0600
> From: "Robert Campbell" <bob@...>
> Subject: Re: Plasma table
>
> Peja,
>
> As far as I am concerned their is only one controller and one Cam package
> for someone building their own CNC plasma machine..
>
> I recommend Mach2 for your controller and SheetCam for your Cam program.
>
> For your torch height control we sell a solutions that is supported by
> Mach2
> and Sheetcam.
>
> Bob Campbell
> Bob@...
> www.campbelldesigns.com
> Breakout board
> THC board sets
> CNC router plans
> Stepper Motors
> VisualMill Basic
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "mr_peja" <mr_peja@...>
> To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2005 1:01 PM
> Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Plasma table
>
>
>>
>>
>> Hello,
>> I need reccomendation on witch programs to use for driwing my new
>> future plasma table (arranged by price)
>> Peja
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Addresses:
>> FAQ: http://www.ktmarketing.com/faq.html
>> FILES: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO/files/
>> Post Messages: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
>>
>> Subscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> Unsubscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> List owner: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-owner@yahoogroups.com, wanliker@...,
>> timg@...
>> Moderator: pentam@... indigo_red@... davemucha@...
>> [Moderators]
>> URL to this group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO
>>
>> OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
>> If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
>> aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it
>> if you have trouble.
>> http://www.metalworking.com/news_servers.html
>>
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jobshophomeshop I consider this to be a
>> sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for
>> OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.
>>
>> NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
>> DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
>> bill
>> List Mom
>> List Owner
>>
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 17
> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 13:16:47 -0600
> From: Jon Elson <elson@...>
> Subject: Re: Backlash
>
> Blue wrote:
>
>>Hi Group,
>>
>>It has been a long time since I posted or read anything from this group,
>>and
>>then it was under another email address. I've been doing other things.
>>
>>I have a problem with my CNC lathe in that the adjustment of backlash on
>>the
>>cross-slide is impossible to get right and I'm looking for a cheap working
>>solution that doesn't require a complete redesign.
>>
>>The leadscrew is Acme and the nuts, there are two of them, are bronze. The
>>front nut is fixed and the rear one can be unlocked and allowed to move to
>>take up the backlash. The nuts appear to be forced apart by a ball under
>>pressure from dished washers acting like a spring.
>>
>>I do not want to fit ballscrews at this stage and the leadscrew has no
>>wear.
>>Does anyone know or have a design of anti-backlash device that would make
>>adjustment much easier and predictable.
>>
>>
> The problem is your existing screw has differential wear. That means
> the thread
> in the most used part of the screw is thinner than at the ends. It is
> impossible
> to make a fixed anti-backlash nut for a worn screw. The only way to make
> it
> work is by making one of the nuts spring loaded. This will greatly
> accelerate the
> wear on the screw and nut. If you replace the screw with a hand-made one
> or
> one made from commercial screw stock, then you will at least eliminate the
> variation in the thread. (Note that crossslide screws are usually
> LEFT-hand thread!)
>
> Otherwise, a small ballscrew sounds like a good idea.
>
> Jon
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 18
> Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 10:02:00 -0800 (PST)
> From: Chuck Pool <aa5wg@...>
> Subject: Re: INFO REQUEST
>
>
> Thank you Dave.
> Chuck Pool
>
> "David A. Frantz" <spinwizard@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Chuck;
>
> It is sort of like this many of these machines come from the same
> manufacture. For example many of the 9x20 lathes are known to come
> from the same plant. That doesn't mean that all of them are exactly
> the same, just that many are re-badged according to resellers wants.
>
> As to junk that is really in the eye of the beholder. For many there
> is an expectation that the machine purchased will look a little
> different after they are done with it. That may mean simple
> modifications or CNC conversions.
>
> Some of the manufactures such as Rong Fu do have a good reputation.
> But there is still the matter of fitting the hardware to your needs.
>
> Dave
>
>
> On Wed, 2005-02-09 at 14:20 +0000, aa5wg wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hello to all. I am a rookie and need some help please. What are the
>> top three benchtop CNC verticle mills, benchtop CNC lathes,
>> controllers, DRO and software to run the above? I have searched for
>> the above and found much. However, I do not have the experience or
>> education to differ the junk from the higher end tools. Thank you to
>> all.
>> Chuck Pool/AA5WG
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Addresses:
>> FAQ: http://www.ktmarketing.com/faq.html
>> FILES: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO/files/
>> Post Messages: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
>>
>> Subscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>> Unsubscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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>> timg@...
>> Moderator: pentam@... indigo_red@... davemucha@...
>> [Moderators]
>> URL to this group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO
>>
>> OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
>> If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
>> aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it
>> if you have trouble.
>> http://www.metalworking.com/news_servers.html
>>
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jobshophomeshop I consider this to be a
>> sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for
>> OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.
>>
>> NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
>> DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
>> bill
>> List Mom
>> List Owner
>>
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Addresses:
> FAQ: http://www.ktmarketing.com/faq.html
> FILES: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO/files/
> Post Messages: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
>
> Subscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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> [Moderators]
> URL to this group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO
>
> OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
> If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
> aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it
> if you have trouble.
> http://www.metalworking.com/news_servers.html
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jobshophomeshop I consider this to be a
> sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for
> OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.
>
> NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
> DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
> bill
> List Mom
> List Owner
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Search presents - Jib Jab's 'Second Term'
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 19
> Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 13:34:43 -0600 (Central Standard Time)
> From: "Bruce Pigeon" <bwpigeon@...>
> Subject: Fw: motor ?
>
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Bruce Pigeon
> Date: 02/09/05 13:33:31
> To: DIY-CNC@...
> Subject: motor ?
>
>
> Hi
>
> I know machining and am learning programing cnc.
> What I know very little about is electronics.
>
> I was digging through some of the motors that I acquired over the years.
> I
> found what I think could become a spindle motor. I have not been able to
> find anything from the manufacturer.
>
> The motor was made by Kollmorgan Copr. or Inland Motor. Both of their
> names are on the tag.
> The motor is a model TTE-2953-1011-v-35
> Serial # 84G81-2043
> DC volts Motor amps LB-FT
> cont(stall) 11.3 15.8 6
> Peak(stall) 55.1 90.0 30
> Maximum RPM 2000
> DC tach volts/1000rpm 32.5
>
> This is all of the information from the tag on the motor. Does anyone
> know
> what I have. It is big and it is heavy. How would I go about testing it
> before trying to build it into something.
>
> Also I still have not been able to find any specifications on Model 713,
> Part number 7-1990 Electro-Craft, Permanent magnet servo motor. I have
> tried the factory, no results. It seems to be good, when I hold the two
> wires together it becomes difficult to turn.
>
> I am building a larger cutting table 82" x 140" and intend to use the
> Elector-Craft Motors on it. I hope they will be enough. The Model 703
> that
> I also have is rated at 410 oz in max cont torq. I am hoping that the 713
> is at least this good or maybe better. I haven't decided what to do with
> z
> axis yet. I have several stepper motors and a couple of small motors,
> with
> gear reduction drives from an xray table. I am not sure what they are
> yet,
> I will do some checking and if I can't find anything I will post the
> models
> and maybe someone can tell me what they are.
>
> Anyway, thanks in advance, I am quite new here and really enjoy the list
> and
> all the information that is disseminated here. What a great source of
> information and helpl
>
> Thanks
>
> Bruce
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 20
> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 19:37:28 -0000
> From: "len_tikular" <george@...>
> Subject: Re: Jeff's mill drill
>
>
> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "turbulatordude"
> <dave_mucha@y...> wrote:
>>
>> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "len_tikular" <george@p...>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > I'd like to get in touch with Jeff. He has some pictures of his
>> > Mill/drill conversion in the 'Photos' section.
>> >
>> > Jeff maybe you could help me convert my Eagle25.
>> >
>> > Thanks
>> >
>> > George
>>
>>
>> Hi Gerorge, Dave here.
>>
>>
>> If Jeff doesn't reply, just review the list, get PGOFFLINE and pull
>> down the whole list so you can review it for each of yoru questions.
>>
>>
>> Check out a few other sites.
>>
>> http://www.homecnc.info/ballscrew.htm
>>
>> for screws replacement.
>>
>> and
>>
>> http://truetex.com/ymount.htm
>>
>> for mounting motors
>>
>> Much of this is straight forward cut and paste stuff.
>>
>> Pick your strong suit, mechanical stuff, electronics, whatever and
>> start with that.
>>
>> My one word of caution is to make sure that when one thing goes in,
>> it does not interfere with another.
>>
>>
>> There are other lists as well.
>>
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/
>>
>> If you are one of those guyse who likes to read every bit possible,
>> you may find that a 3-ring binder and print out all this stuff.
>> Seperate into sections.
>>
>> If the last couple years of on-line searching, I think I can safely
>> say I have forgotten more web sites than most people can remember.
>>
>> Dave
>
> Thanks Dave, I'll go see.
>
> It's all a bit of a jungle. Jeff's looked like what I need so I'll
> give it a go. One thing that did startle me was the way he achieved
> the third axis control. I thought that was good.
>
> George
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 21
> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 19:52:46 -0000
> From: "m0nkey0ne" <m0nkey0ne@...>
> Subject: Re: Mutilated mouse DRO (using Microsoft PS2 Mice)
>
>
> Bill,
> I read and will continue to watch what you are doing to whip
> unrelenting mice into DRO submission. I have a vehicle down and have
> to finish it before I play with the mice, but have research it some
> on the net. I will anxiously await your instructions and/or parts
> list, plus rereading your post. I am not versed well in electronics,
> but have done programming in C++ and love Visual Basic. Most
> anything can happen. Keep up the work on "DRo. Frankenmouse"
> Randy
>
>
> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "William Carrothers"
> <wcarrothers@c...> wrote:
>> Well in an effort to have a cheep DRO I figured I'd end up using
> the mouse encoders to interface with the parallel port using the DRO
> software that reads the parallel ports from
> http://www.lindsayengraving.com/other_interests/dro.html Using
> encoders from PS2 microsoft type mice
>>
>> Anyway I couldn't find much out there on mouse mutilations that
> didn't use Logitech mice. And of course I've long since tossed all
> my Logitech mice which I liked a lot but simply wore out. But I do
> happen to have a LOT of MS mice.
>>
>> Of course they are built different. The out put of their IR
> sensors is different then I think the Logitech ones are based on some
> of the schematics I've seen on the web.
>>
>> The MS mice use 1 IR emitter and 1 sensor which has 2 outputs which
> produce the oscillating output signals to determine direction. The
> encoders used in the
> http://www.lindsayengraving.com/other_interests/dro.html I think
> output negative pulses which trip the PNP transistors to signal the
> 5v to the parallel ports. Looking at the Microsoft mouse circuit
> board it was kinda easy to see the sensors were going to send hi
> output when triggered rather then low so connecting to PNP
> transistors like they did on the lindsyengraving site wouldn't work.
>>
>> Anyway I'm just dangerous enough with electronics and transistors
> to know when things work. But in any case in my experimenting I
> connected the Encoder signals from the MS mouse to some NPN
> transistors then watched how the LED's pulsed. Took a little bit to
> figure out which pin's of the mouse chip (once removed) needed to be
> used (follow the circuit board layouts) but once powered with 5v I
> was getting signals to the NPN transistors and was able to watch some
> connected LED lights blink on and off as I spun the wheel... Success.
>>
>> Now the problem was to convert that signal to PNP so I could send
> 5v to the parallel port.
>>
>> To do that I connected the output of the NPN transistors to some
> 4N25 optical isolators (pin 1 to the NPN transistor and 2 to
> ground). That triggered the optical transistor on the other side and
> that (pin 4 ground and 5 to PNP) triggers the PNP transistors . The
> rest of it is the same as Lindsy engraving's site. to the parallel
> port.
>>
>>
>> The mouse bodies are mounted to the mill and a simple rubber band
> running around the crank shafts with some PVC slipped and shrunk
> around the shafts to guide the band a little bit.. the band goes
> around the signal wheel triggers the signals. After getting it
> dialed in with the dro software it works Really good. Took
> something like a .00004725 count offset in the software to get it
> counting right with the signals.
>>
>> I had a handful of mice to play with. and while the mouse chip for
> the most part had the same pin outs for reading the sensors (pin 1
> and 2 for x and pin 3 and 4 for Y Pin 5 was positive) one of the
> mouse needed 6,11,12 to ground and the other just needed 6 and 12 and
> had an extra transistor on it which had to be removed and bridged
> with negative.
>>
>> I did find how ever non of my P2 gate way boxes would work at all.
> Stupid gateway parallel ports not standard? Ended up using one of my
> P1 machines I have laying around.
>>
>> Anyway sorry for the long post. Hopefully I will have some
> pictures of the work and schematics up soon. My descriptions of
> things probably isn't really good enough for the non brave to try but
> couldn't wait to talk about it.
>>
>> b.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 22
> Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 14:58:32 -0500
> From: "William Carrothers" <wcarrothers@...>
> Subject: RE: Re: Mutilated mouse DRO (using Microsoft PS2 Mice)
>
> I posted some pics and such in a thread over on cnczone.com
> http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8309
> is the link.
>
> Not much new info and I have not drawn up a schematic of the circuit
> boards just yet. I'd be curious if anyone could follow the design
> looking at the picture of the circuit board and description. .hehe
>
> But I will draw up a schematic as soon as I can. But as I found each
> mouse is a bit different in it's design. See the thread where I have
> pictures of the 2 mice and the one where I had to eliminate one of it's
> transistors to give the sensors proper ground (could tell by following
> the circuit on the back of the mouse board.
>
> Hopefully tonight I will have time to mount the other mouse to my mill.
> So far I've only had the x axis mouse mounted and only just finished
> wiring the Y axis mouse.
>
> b.
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: m0nkey0ne [mailto:m0nkey0ne@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2005 2:53 PM
> To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Mutilated mouse DRO (using Microsoft PS2
> Mice)
>
>
>
> Bill,
> I read and will continue to watch what you are doing to whip
> unrelenting mice into DRO submission. I have a vehicle down and have
> to finish it before I play with the mice, but have research it some
> on the net. I will anxiously await your instructions and/or parts
> list, plus rereading your post. I am not versed well in electronics,
> but have done programming in C++ and love Visual Basic. Most
> anything can happen. Keep up the work on "DRo. Frankenmouse"
> Randy
>
>
> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "William Carrothers"
> <wcarrothers@c...> wrote:
>> Well in an effort to have a cheep DRO I figured I'd end up using
> the mouse encoders to interface with the parallel port using the DRO
> software that reads the parallel ports from
> http://www.lindsayengraving.com/other_interests/dro.html Using
> encoders from PS2 microsoft type mice
>>
>> Anyway I couldn't find much out there on mouse mutilations that
> didn't use Logitech mice. And of course I've long since tossed all
> my Logitech mice which I liked a lot but simply wore out. But I do
> happen to have a LOT of MS mice.
>>
>> Of course they are built different. The out put of their IR
> sensors is different then I think the Logitech ones are based on some
> of the schematics I've seen on the web.
>>
>> The MS mice use 1 IR emitter and 1 sensor which has 2 outputs which
> produce the oscillating output signals to determine direction. The
> encoders used in the
> http://www.lindsayengraving.com/other_interests/dro.html I think
> output negative pulses which trip the PNP transistors to signal the
> 5v to the parallel ports. Looking at the Microsoft mouse circuit
> board it was kinda easy to see the sensors were going to send hi
> output when triggered rather then low so connecting to PNP
> transistors like they did on the lindsyengraving site wouldn't work.
>>
>> Anyway I'm just dangerous enough with electronics and transistors
> to know when things work. But in any case in my experimenting I
> connected the Encoder signals from the MS mouse to some NPN
> transistors then watched how the LED's pulsed. Took a little bit to
> figure out which pin's of the mouse chip (once removed) needed to be
> used (follow the circuit board layouts) but once powered with 5v I
> was getting signals to the NPN transistors and was able to watch some
> connected LED lights blink on and off as I spun the wheel... Success.
>>
>> Now the problem was to convert that signal to PNP so I could send
> 5v to the parallel port.
>>
>> To do that I connected the output of the NPN transistors to some
> 4N25 optical isolators (pin 1 to the NPN transistor and 2 to
> ground). That triggered the optical transistor on the other side and
> that (pin 4 ground and 5 to PNP) triggers the PNP transistors . The
> rest of it is the same as Lindsy engraving's site. to the parallel
> port.
>>
>>
>> The mouse bodies are mounted to the mill and a simple rubber band
> running around the crank shafts with some PVC slipped and shrunk
> around the shafts to guide the band a little bit.. the band goes
> around the signal wheel triggers the signals. After getting it
> dialed in with the dro software it works Really good. Took
> something like a .00004725 count offset in the software to get it
> counting right with the signals.
>>
>> I had a handful of mice to play with. and while the mouse chip for
> the most part had the same pin outs for reading the sensors (pin 1
> and 2 for x and pin 3 and 4 for Y Pin 5 was positive) one of the
> mouse needed 6,11,12 to ground and the other just needed 6 and 12 and
> had an extra transistor on it which had to be removed and bridged
> with negative.
>>
>> I did find how ever non of my P2 gate way boxes would work at all.
> Stupid gateway parallel ports not standard? Ended up using one of my
> P1 machines I have laying around.
>>
>> Anyway sorry for the long post. Hopefully I will have some
> pictures of the work and schematics up soon. My descriptions of
> things probably isn't really good enough for the non brave to try but
> couldn't wait to talk about it.
>>
>> b.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> Addresses:
> FAQ: http://www.ktmarketing.com/faq.html
> FILES: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO/files/
> Post Messages: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
>
> Subscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Unsubscribe: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> List owner: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO-owner@yahoogroups.com, wanliker@...,
> timg@...
> Moderator: pentam@... indigo_red@... davemucha@...
> [Moderators]
> URL to this group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO
>
> OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
> If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
> aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it
> if you have trouble.
> http://www.metalworking.com/news_servers.html
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jobshophomeshop I consider this to be a
> sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there,
> for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.
>
> NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
> DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
> bill
> List Mom
> List Owner
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 23
> Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 20:12:44 -0000
> From: "Blue" <jo001k1132@...>
> Subject: Re: Backlash
>
> Hi Jon,
>
>> The problem is your existing screw has differential wear. That means
>> the thread
>> in the most used part of the screw is thinner than at the ends. It is
>> impossible
>> to make a fixed anti-backlash nut for a worn screw. The only way to make
> it
>> work is by making one of the nuts spring loaded. This will greatly
>> accelerate the
>> wear on the screw and nut. If you replace the screw with a hand-made one
> or
>> one made from commercial screw stock, then you will at least eliminate
>> the
>> variation in the thread. (Note that crossslide screws are usually
>> LEFT-hand thread!)
>
> I don't think differential wear is the problem as the machine has done no
> real work. I took it to bits because there was still some delivery grease
> on
> the machine, although it is 10 years old. It was in a technical college
> and
> never used past the first few weeks.
>
> I can adjust the nuts to give me 0.1mm of backlash and the slide remains
> free over all its length, but if I adjust the backlash tighter than this
> the
> fast traverse loses steps. This is the speed the controller uses for all
> fast moves and is not setable/changable in the software.
>
> It was ok before the strip down but I think it might need some bedding in
> before it will be that way again and I can't wait. I'd rather change the
> design of the nuts. I will be putting a ballscrew on it but not just yet.
>
> Regards,
>
> Terry
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 24
> Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 19:44:08 -0000
> From: "sharkloves46" <sharkloves46@...>
> Subject: Re: Low cost 3D scanner Kits
>
>
>
> Hey Dan, any updates on your 3D scanner product?
>
>
>
> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "Dan Mauch" <dmauch@s...>
> wrote:
>> I am in the process of being licensed to sell a low cost structured
> light 3
>> dimension scanner. It was I will be posting more information in a
> few days
>> and will have pictures of the object being scanned and the
> resulting scanned
>> image data files that can converted for 3d machining.
>> I'm not at liberty to discuss all of the features until the
> licensing
>> agreement is signed. But as I understand it even a low priced
> structured
>> light scanner would run several thousand $. The one I will be
> selling will
>> be a fraction of that and should be significantly under $400.
>> The kits will include the 3D computer program, the 3D builder
> program, 3D
>> viewer, 3D scanner manual and optionally, a scan panel that needs
> to be
>> assembled and a lens.
>>
>> Sorry I can't be more specific at this time but in a few days I
> should have
>> a ton of info on it. So kids save your money to be the first on
> your block
>> to have your very own 3d scanner :)
>> Dan
>> Camtronics Inc
>> www.seanet.com/~dmauch
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 25
> Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 20:35:09 -0000
> From: "AbbyKatt" <cnc@...>
> Subject: RE: Re: Jeff's mill drill
>
> George, Hi
>
> I think your spam-blocker is blocking my messages (or my mail server is
> not working again..),
> so I'll reply on-list, as it at least will get through.
>
> I've just finished CNCing an Eagle 25! I did mine with servos and a
> gecko-driver, so it's probably just a little different from what you
> intend to do with stepper motors. I would recommend servos, for speed
> and reliability, but steppers can work providing you use reliable
> drivers and have enough power and torque.Where abouts are you? If you're
> in London, you're welcome to come over and see the machine and I can
> explain all of the bits I did on it.
>
> I was working on a website detailing my upgrade of the machine, but then
> I got pretty damned busy so I never finished it. I have lots of pics and
> a half-complete page detailing the basics.
> The only problem I know of with the machine is the backlash in the
> Z-axis.. you'll find the mechanism is springy. If you take a piece of
> metal and put it beneath the cutter, then use the fine feed to wind it
> down, you'll find there is this "gray" area where you're turning it but
> the feed is flexing rather than feeding down the quill... not too much
> of a problem for a soft metal like alu, but bad for steel. Dan Mauch
> sent me a document on how to fix this, but I've not done it yet.
>
> Anyway, if you're interested, I can mail you some pictures and name a
> few sources where I got stuff (And MAN are timing-pulleys expensive...
> you'll see...)
>
> Regards,
> Abby
>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: turbulatordude [mailto:dave_mucha@...]
>> Sent: 09 February 2005 16:16
>> To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Jeff's mill drill
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "len_tikular" <george@p...>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > I'd like to get in touch with Jeff. He has some pictures of his
>> > Mill/drill conversion in the 'Photos' section.
>> >
>> > Jeff maybe you could help me convert my Eagle25.
>> >
>> > Thanks
>> >
>> > George
>>
>>
>> Hi Gerorge, Dave here.
>>
>>
>> If Jeff doesn't reply, just review the list, get PGOFFLINE and pull
>> down the whole list so you can review it for each of yoru questions.
>>
>>
>> Check out a few other sites.
>>
>> http://www.homecnc.info/ballscrew.htm
>>
>> for screws replacement.
>>
>> and
>>
>> http://truetex.com/ymount.htm
>>
>> for mounting motors
>>
>> Much of this is straight forward cut and paste stuff.
>>
>> Pick your strong suit, mechanical stuff, electronics, whatever and
>> start with that.
>>
>> My one word of caution is to make sure that when one thing goes in,
>> it does not interfere with another.
>>
>>
>> There are other lists as well.
>>
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mill_drill/
>>
>> If you are one of those guyse who likes to read every bit possible,
>> you may find that a 3-ring binder and print out all this stuff.
>> Seperate into sections.
>>
>> If the last couple years of on-line searching, I think I can safely
>> say I have forgotten more web sites than most people can remember.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>> OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
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> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jobshophomeshop I consider this to be a
> sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there,
> for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.
>
> NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
> DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........ bill
> List Mom List Owner
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> ________________________________________________________________________
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> Addresses:
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> if you have trouble.
> http://www.metalworking.com/news_servers.html
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jobshophomeshop I consider this to be a
> sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for
> OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.
>
> NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
> DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
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