Re: Bearing Lock Nuts on 5/8 in ballscrews

Try:

http://www.wiseowlmagazines.com/

Cheers,
Steve Stallings
www.PMDX.com


--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "George Taylor, IV"
<gtaylor@m...> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> There is an outfit in the states that I get my ME subscription from

who

> has been able in the past to get me replacements for lost-in-the-

mail

> issues and also back issues of ME Workshop. Great people to work

with,

> but I can't for the life of me remember their name (have it at work)
> give me an email at gtaylor@m... tomorrow and I will forward
> particulars.
>
> George
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mmeyers1111
> Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 7:26 PM
> To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Bearing Lock Nuts on 5/8 in

ballscrews

>
> Marcus and John - Thanks for your insight and suggestions.
>
> Does anybody know where I can purchase back issues of Model
> Engineer's Workshop or get reprints of Dick Stephen's article...
>
> Volume 103 (December/January 2004/2005) "Retrofitting the X3

Milling

> Machine"
>
> I found out how to order a subscription, but I can't find info on
> getting back issues.
>
> Mike
>
>
> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "selbyplus4" <doc@j...>
> wrote:
> > --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "mmeyers1111"
> > <mmeyers1111@y...> wrote:
> > > Hi folks...
> > >
> > > I'm going to turn the ends of some Rockford 5/8 inch ballscrews
> > and
> > > I was wondering if anybody has experience with bearing lock

nuts

> > and
> > > who could comment on a few questions. The lock nut will be used
> to
> > > preload an angular contact bearing with a 12mm = 0.4724 inch
> > inside
> > > diameter that is mounted inside a bearing block. I've never

used

> > > ballscrews or bearing lock nuts so this is very new to me. I'm
> > doing
> > > this to the ends of 4 ballscrews. I'll be turning them as R-30
> > Type
> > > C ends (http://www.rockfordballscrew.com/semchart.htm).
> > >
> > > 1) I noticed that McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com) has
> > > bearing lock nuts in 2 different sizes that would be reasonable
> > for
> > > a 5/8 in screw (.391"-32 and .469"-32 ). The bearing portion
> (non-
> > > threaded portion) of the ballscrew shaft will be turned to
> 0.4724
> > > inch to accept a 12mm ID angular contact bearing. So I guess

I'm

> > > thinking that the .469 - 32 TPI threads would be the best
> > choice
> > and
> > > the bearing should slip over the threaded portion without
> trouble.
> > > Does the .469 -32 lock nut sound like the most reasonable
> choice?
> > > Yes/no?
> > >
> > > 2) I noticed that the McMastrer-Carr bearing lock nut indicates
> > that
> > > it is `self retaining' and I don't see any bearing lock nut
> > washers
> > > available for it. Other nuts I've seen seem to require special
> > > washers. Is it true that that all I need is the lock nut itself
> > and
> > > that a washer would play no role in making sure it stays
> `locked'
> > > Yes/no?
> > >
> > > 3) Do bearing lock nuts typically have special threads that
> > require
> > > a special die to cut them, or can I use my lathe to cut 32 TPI
> > > threads with the compound rest set at 29.5 degrees? I'm

assuming

> > > this isn't a simple yes/no. Sorry.
> > >
> > > 4) Does anybody use a simpler less expensive approach to
> > preloading
> > > angular contact bearings on a shaft so that I don't have to
> > purchase
> > > special bearing lock nuts?
> > >
> > > 5) Can anybody suggest other/better lock nuts from other
> suppliers?
> > >
> > > Sorry for the length of this folks.
> > >
> > > Mike
> >
> > Hi Mike. your answers might well lie in an article by Dick

Stephen

> > in issue 103 of Model Engineers workshop. Basically what you put
> on
> > the end of a ball screw has to be absolutely concentric with the
> > shaft, or it will not run!. Ball screw shafts are as as hard as
> > hades to machine as they are case hardened, firms supplying them
> > will anneal the end for you, but at a cost, and ball screws cost
> too
> > much for me to dare take a blowlamp to them. What Dick advocates
> is
> > drilling out the centre of the shaft(which is soft), and gluing

in

> a
> > spigot of user friendly EN1A leaded steel. The shaft of that

steel

> > then being machined / threaded, and whatever else you want to do.
> > I have done this on my conversion of an X3 mill and it works.

What

> > is more, if I can do it anyone can.
> > John
>
>
>
>
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