Re: Hi :)

Thanks for all the replies, great activity over the holidays :)


Basically I'm going to be making small gun parts, for which I have originals.
Runs of probably 2 to 50 at a time, depending on the part and need.
My basic headache was that with rifles more than 50 years old, certain parts are scarce at best,
so I need to start doing it myself, especially parts that I have zero hope of finding anywhere else.

So, since I might make 1-4 part on one occasion, then make 20 more a month later,
CNC just makes sense, as it lets you go back and do exactly the same thing
over & over, even months/years later.

I won't need a lathe, as pretty much everything was flat stamped steel or milled steel.
I could techinically use just a regular mill with the proper cutters,
but I want some flexibility & precision. Not to mention repeatability.

I'm kind of trying to be intentionally vague as to the parts, because even though
most parts are 30-90+ years old, the company that made 'em is still in existance.
And I don't wish to step on any toes before I figure out if I can make the parts
well enough to make a biz out of it, instead of just reproductions for personal use.

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, Jon Elson <elson@...> wrote:
>
> bigshrek2005 wrote:
> > Total newb here...I'm about to embark on making small parts and I'm
> > trying to figure out the least expensive way to do it...but do it well.
> >
> > Most parts will be no larger than 2"x3"x1", made of hardened aluminium,
> > so I guess a basic mini-CNC-robot or CNC-mill will be the way to go.
> >
> > The parts will be flat on two sides...many with a cut 3/8" groove on
> > the bottom side.
> >
> > So what should I start with?
> >
> >
> Well, your part sizes indicate a Taig or minimill like an X2 should
> work. I have a
> minimill that I bought because it was light enough to lug to shows, but
> I normally use
> a Bridgeport. But, i have done some test cuts with the minimill and it
> really isn't
> that bad. I originally put steppers on it, but then upgraded it to
> servo motors. it is
> what I use for all sorts of testing projects.
>
> Anyway, either the Taig or minimill has a vertical column with slideways
> on it, so the
> head doesn't swing when elevated. The "mill drills" mostly have round
> columns, so
> you lose your XY alignment anytime you elevate the head - a major pain!
>
> For serious machining, the Sherline is a bit light for my liking. The
> CNC-ready Taig
> has a motor set up for higher spindle speeds, a definite advantage. The
> minimill has
> a rack and pinion Z axis, which needs to be replaced with some kind of
> leadscrew
> (either Acme or ballscrew) for any precise work. Also, the Y axis
> leadscrew bracket
> has just a brass bushing, I machined this part to put two ball bearings
> in it as the thrust
> bearing, it works MUCH better now.
>
> See http://pico-systems.com/minimill.html
> for more info and pics of the mods I made to that machine.
>
> Jon
>