re:re:AMP connectors
Posted by
ballendo@y...
on 2001-01-18 06:05:35 UTC
Smoke wrote:
is not necessary here, and a screwdriver is closer to the 'net' shape.
The "real" tool is of die cast, stamped, and injection molded parts;
indexing levers, etc. Probably spend at least 160 dollars of time to
duplicate its' functionality.
But, using a screwdriver (especially if it is modified with a file or
grinder can work well.
The trick is understanding what is 'supposed to' happen, and what
'usually does' happen when using the screwdriver (or AMP T-Tool).
First, be sure the size of wire is correct for the housing size (color
of housing as mentioned before). Then use the screwdriver to push the
wire down into the narrow slot (which is supposed to "cut into" the
insulation and make contact. Problem is, the slow action of the
screwdriver or t-handle 'blade, combined with the tough insulation on
many wires, causes the insulation to just 'spread the slot' of the
connector instead of cutting into the insulation...
Those who have tried to fit phone wiring to a "punch down" panel, without
using a "punch down" tool, will see the similarity.
The solution is to use as narrow a connector as possible. (why will
become apparent shortly) Insert and press all the wires with the blade
tool. THEN, using a pair of pliers ACROSS the width of the connector,
squeeze the slots in the direction which will cause then to cut into
the insulation as designed. Repeat these two steps one more time: press
the wire in again with the bladed tool, and then squeeze with pliers.
This technique VASTLY improved my success with these connctors (until
I bought the "real" tools).
Hope this helps.
Ballendo
P.S. The reason you want a narrow connector is so that the pressure of the
pliers is spread more evenly among the different wires. Otherwise, the
'weakest' insulation may take the pressure and the rest will still be
bad connections. Also be sure the wire(s) are not trying to "stick past"
the connector body! The molded stop (to prevent shorting) will make it
near impossible to get a good connection.
><s>it seems to me you could forge a tool from a small piece of drill rod.I believe this is what I originally said??? Smoke, the strength of forging
>Smoke
>What is all this talk of buying the tool?? We are a bunch of machinists.
>Seems like it would be simple enough to make one up.
>Tim
is not necessary here, and a screwdriver is closer to the 'net' shape.
The "real" tool is of die cast, stamped, and injection molded parts;
indexing levers, etc. Probably spend at least 160 dollars of time to
duplicate its' functionality.
But, using a screwdriver (especially if it is modified with a file or
grinder can work well.
The trick is understanding what is 'supposed to' happen, and what
'usually does' happen when using the screwdriver (or AMP T-Tool).
First, be sure the size of wire is correct for the housing size (color
of housing as mentioned before). Then use the screwdriver to push the
wire down into the narrow slot (which is supposed to "cut into" the
insulation and make contact. Problem is, the slow action of the
screwdriver or t-handle 'blade, combined with the tough insulation on
many wires, causes the insulation to just 'spread the slot' of the
connector instead of cutting into the insulation...
Those who have tried to fit phone wiring to a "punch down" panel, without
using a "punch down" tool, will see the similarity.
The solution is to use as narrow a connector as possible. (why will
become apparent shortly) Insert and press all the wires with the blade
tool. THEN, using a pair of pliers ACROSS the width of the connector,
squeeze the slots in the direction which will cause then to cut into
the insulation as designed. Repeat these two steps one more time: press
the wire in again with the bladed tool, and then squeeze with pliers.
This technique VASTLY improved my success with these connctors (until
I bought the "real" tools).
Hope this helps.
Ballendo
P.S. The reason you want a narrow connector is so that the pressure of the
pliers is spread more evenly among the different wires. Otherwise, the
'weakest' insulation may take the pressure and the rest will still be
bad connections. Also be sure the wire(s) are not trying to "stick past"
the connector body! The molded stop (to prevent shorting) will make it
near impossible to get a good connection.
Discussion Thread
Graham Hollis
2001-01-17 13:20:08 UTC
Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] AMP connectors
John D. Guenther
2001-01-17 14:27:44 UTC
Re: AMP connectors
Tim Goldstein
2001-01-17 18:11:59 UTC
RE: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] AMP connectors
Smoke
2001-01-17 20:57:38 UTC
Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] AMP connectors
ballendo@y...
2001-01-18 03:38:29 UTC
re: re: AMP connectors
ballendo@y...
2001-01-18 06:05:35 UTC
re:re:AMP connectors
Smoke
2001-01-18 10:58:37 UTC
Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] re:re:AMP connectors
ballendo@y...
2001-01-18 20:49:00 UTC
Re: re:re:AMP connectors
Dick Ganderton
2001-01-19 06:05:22 UTC
Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: re:re:AMP connectors