Sherline spindle lock was Re: Rich's penholder[Spindle lock needed]

Hi,

Okay, I DID say it was a quick thought. Looks like the idea I just
presented won't work for lack of room around the pulley.

So, A much better, but more difficult to implement, would be:

The pulley covers the spindle housing at the corner where we can
drill a hole for a sliding rod, which will again engage hole(s) in
the pulley.

Looking at a s/l lathe, we're talking about the upper left corner of
the housing, as you sit in front of the lathe ready for use.

So we remove the pulley, and drill a 1/4 hole about 1-1/4 inch deep
in the corner of the housing (which will be under the pulley, when
same is re-installed). Now we mill a small slot on the side of the
housing which intersects the drilled hole for an "actuating"
and "locking" screw.

This will be like the old style sliding cabinet and gate latches.

Now we make short 1/4 inch dia. pin. Turn down the end to 1/8 or so
(means the "matching" holes in the pulley will be 1/8). Then cross
drill and tap 6-32 (you might be able to use 10-32, which would keep
the mod consistant with other sherline standards, but I'm away from
the shop, so I can't measure now. If so, you'd mill a 3/16 slot)

To reassemble:

Drop the 1/4 rod in the hole, and turn it so the threaded hole can be
seen in the slot. Screw a socket head cap screw into the 1/4 pin.
This is the actuator AND lock for the pin. Tighten the screw so the
1/8 part of the pin is "sticking up" and put a little lipstick on the
end.

Replace the pulley, which will be marked by the lipstick. Drill the
pulley hole(s) as per my previous message. Reinstall the pulley and
you are done!

You could put a "wavy" washer under the head of the screw for some
friction, so you don't have to ALWAYS lock it down to prevent
vibration from "engaging" it unintentionally.

You could also turn down more of the actuating pin to 1/8, thread th
top of the 1/4" hole and put a "drilled thru" threaded collar at
thetop of the hole. Under this would be a spring to keep the pin
retracted.

This should be pretty slick!

Down side is that you'll need another tool to mill the slot/drill the
hole since your spindle is "inoperable" <g> at the time.

Hope this helps.

Ballendo

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., ballendo@y... wrote:
> Rich,
>
> Just a quick thought:
>
> Get a piece of spring steel (Car feeler gauge about the right size,
> and cheap) Drive a rivet <snip>