Re: 3D DXF to G-Code converter?

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "Andrew Werby" <drewid@a...> wrote:

> Message: 14
> Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2002 19:17:06 -0000
> From: "jeffswayze" <jswayze@o...>
> Subject: 3D DXF to G-Code converter?
>
> This may be an old topic, but I'm trying to track down a few 3D DXF
> (or STL) to G-code converters to try out. I have ACE Converter from
> Yeager Automation, but it does not handle the 3DFACE entity that my
> 3D program spits out. STLwork is another option, but at $400 it's
> more than I want to spend.
>
> I remember looking into software like this a year or so ago and
> coming across some interesting shareware/freeware converters.
> Unfortunatley my internet searches have come up empty. I remember

one

> in particular that was on an overseas website - Finland maybe? I
> dunno.
>
> Anyhow, if anyone can drop me a note with some options I'd

appreciate

> it. My goal [for this project] is to cut topological relief maps

into

> plastic or metal.
>
> [I haven't seen any freeware/shareware that does an adequate job of

this,

> sorry. I've do have STLwork for a bit less, or you could look at

DeskProto

> Lite (free working demos of both programs are on their respective

sites) and

> Millwizard. I've used DeskProto to mill out USGS landscapes pretty
> successfully, and either of these others should work just as well.

The trick

> is in converting them from the native DEM format into something you

can work

> with. It sounds like you've got this part figured out, if they are

already

> in the form of 3dface DXFs (what program are you using to get you

this

> far?). If you haven't decided on a material, I'd suggest Delrin

(acetyl).

I haven't actually converted a DEM into a STL yet, but I've got
several paths to that end. Currently I'm using Byce 5 to create
landscapes, and I think it has a facility to import landscape data.

I've been using RENboard (polyurethane composite board) recently, and
that seems to work very well. I believe you can simply paint it to
seal the pores then pour your mold material around it to make a part.

> I've been using this lately and found it had fewer problems (fuzz,

chip-out,

> overheating) than most of the plastics I've attempted to cut. 6160

aluminum

> will also work, but it takes a lot longer, since you have to cut it

much

> slower (at least on my machine).]
>
> Andrew Werby
> www.computersculpture.com