Ballscrew conversion
Posted by
stratton@m...
on 2000-02-17 21:17:34 UTC
Just spent yet another evening trying to figure out how to shoehorn
cheap ballscrews into an old lathe that wasn't designed for them, and
hence has a fairly small channel in the carriage that won't really
accomodate even a 5/8" ball nut (1" sq + return channels) without
milling out more material than I'd like.
So I got to thinking and remembered an alternative I might have heard
suggested somewhere: What if the screw were fixed to the cross slide
and the nut were turned instead? It could be captured between ball
bearings and needle thrust bearings in a housing that would bolt onto
the back of the carriage, so cutting forces would actually put the
screw in tension. Power transmission would be via toothed timing
belt, with a sprocket bored out and bolted to a flange that screws
onto the ballnut threads.
Problem though is I don't see a reasonable way to get a 2nd ballnut in
there to permit preload, unless I make the whole assembly really long.
Anyone able to estimate what kind of lash I would likely see on the
5/8 or 3/4" .200 lead rolled components from McMaster? I've also
heard rumors about replacing the balls with slightly larger ones to
make them tighter...
Chris
--
Christopher C. Stratton, stratton@...
Instrument Maker, Horn Player & Engineer
30 Griswold Street, Cambridge, MA 02138
http://www.mdc.net/~stratton
(617) 492-3358 home/shop
cheap ballscrews into an old lathe that wasn't designed for them, and
hence has a fairly small channel in the carriage that won't really
accomodate even a 5/8" ball nut (1" sq + return channels) without
milling out more material than I'd like.
So I got to thinking and remembered an alternative I might have heard
suggested somewhere: What if the screw were fixed to the cross slide
and the nut were turned instead? It could be captured between ball
bearings and needle thrust bearings in a housing that would bolt onto
the back of the carriage, so cutting forces would actually put the
screw in tension. Power transmission would be via toothed timing
belt, with a sprocket bored out and bolted to a flange that screws
onto the ballnut threads.
Problem though is I don't see a reasonable way to get a 2nd ballnut in
there to permit preload, unless I make the whole assembly really long.
Anyone able to estimate what kind of lash I would likely see on the
5/8 or 3/4" .200 lead rolled components from McMaster? I've also
heard rumors about replacing the balls with slightly larger ones to
make them tighter...
Chris
--
Christopher C. Stratton, stratton@...
Instrument Maker, Horn Player & Engineer
30 Griswold Street, Cambridge, MA 02138
http://www.mdc.net/~stratton
(617) 492-3358 home/shop
Discussion Thread
stratton@m...
2000-02-17 21:17:34 UTC
Ballscrew conversion
PTENGIN@a...
2000-02-18 01:57:22 UTC
Re: Ballscrew conversion
stratton@m...
2000-02-18 04:56:39 UTC
Re: Ballscrew conversion
Tim Goldstein
2000-02-18 06:40:59 UTC
RE: Ballscrew conversion
Dan Mauch
2000-02-18 06:54:34 UTC
Re: Ballscrew conversion
Roger Brower
2000-02-17 11:28:00 UTC
Ballscrew conversion
Leslie Watts
2000-02-18 11:23:34 UTC
Re: Ballscrew conversion
Tim Goldstein
2000-02-18 12:06:07 UTC
Re: Ballscrew conversion
Ted Robbins
2000-02-18 20:57:44 UTC
Re: Ballscrew conversion