Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: AC to DC quesiotn, old worklight

On Thu, 30 Sep 2004 19:23:15 -0000, you wrote:

>I would think that if the lamp is resistanced based, it would
>probably work at 24v AC with a slightly reduced light output.
>
>Ohm's law, reactance, RMS and all that stuff

Actually, RMS is defined so that a heater running at 24volts RMS
generates the same heat as a heater running 24 volts DC. That's why
they defined it that way. Ditto for lamps.

Harvey

>
>Jeff
>
>--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "volitan712003"
><volitan@o...> wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>> I'm helping a friend with a real old Mori Seiki (sic?) lathe. Of
>all
>> the things to obsess over, he wants the worklight to be functional
>> from the original switch on the control! All that's left from the
>> original light is a housing and a "dish" that hold the bulb.
>>
>> There's a sign near the light that says to use a 24v, H3 Halogen
>bulb.
>> We managed to find these on-line. Trouble is when I measure the
>> voltage going into the switch, it's around 24 volts alright, but it
>> seems to be AC?! I have no idea of the amperage.
>>
>> I'm assuming the bulbs are DC, although I haven't tried it yet. I'm
>> also assuming there was some type of current converter originally
>in
>> the housing itself (there's an awful lot of room in there for just
>a
>> bulb).
>>
>> If I'm right on this, should we be able to use a bridge rectifier
>and
>> a variable resistor, after the switch, to convert the voltage and
>> bring it back down to 24v? Would a cap be necessary? And Am I just
>> barking up the wrong tree altogether?
>>
>> I suggested a totally new worklight, they're on ebay cheap enough.
>But
>> he wants to try it this way first... He really likes this old
>clunker,
>> and wants to try and keep it original.
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>> David
>
>
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