Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Sherline Retrofit Wiring Info Needed.

That's Logical.

I've noticed that I use the e-stop a lot more than just emergencies, and was
beginning to wonder what I would do if one of the drivers exploded and
started throwing flames. I have anotherbutton around here that's yellow
instead of red. I'll probably switch that around tonight.

What makes more sense? wiring the full 220Vac through the Real E-Stop
Switch, or using a N.C. switch running off 5 volts switching a continuous
duty N.O. relay.

The switches are water/coolant resistant, but I don't want to be in a bad
spot, push the button and electrocute myself. Hmm. Something to think
about.

----Original Message Follows----
From: wanliker@...
Reply-To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@egroups.com
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Sherline Retrofit Wiring Info Needed.
Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 10:44:49 EDT

In a message dated 7/25/00 8:01:44 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
ejayhire@... writes:

<< The e-stop button should be red, on a
yellow base. Your software must be configured to watch the e-stop circuit
and turn everything off if it opens. Mine is E-stop is wired to the
enable
pin of the stepper motor controller. >>

To be a true E-STOP it should also remove all incoming power to the entire
circuit, otherwise a shorted devices in the outputs can lock the steppers in
a run condition beyond the control of the circuits, and then could only be
stopped by pulling the plug. Use one set of switches on the e-stop to open
incoming power, use a stop button for all other functions, they are two
different devices, and used differently. The E-Stop button should be a
locking type so that it stays locked off when it is shut off.
The problem with solid state devices is that a high percentage of there
failures are in a shorted mode, and they can no longer be controlled, thus
you need a true E-STOP circuit to remove incoming power.
bill

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