Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Hi new here

on 2014-04-17 14:41:20 UTC

Going through this myself in a home ---> commercial work space. Trying to get a 1325 Chinese machine. My best advice is: 1. Have commercial insurance for your space (my hobby tools are on the home insurance in the same space). 2. Get a factory to make a machine with UL/CSA/ETL components. Be prepared to send them parts and wiring. 3. Have the machine certified by a local inspection group. Your municipality and local tool shops can help direct you in this. Do not cheat, but be cost effective.

It's a nice idea to buy a North American made industrial quality machine, but you will need a lot of money to get a new one and almost as much to refit an old one. Look for grants, microloans and tax credits.

Many Chinese factories will give you the same sales pitch. Don't believe a word of it. Stick to your specs. Hire an inspection agent in China (cheap) and make them aware that fake labels found by your Chinese agent or a local certification inpection will be returned for a refund of the certified part price. Those parts are not in the Chinese domestic catalogs, but in the export catalogs. You can even find certified parts on sites like Alibaba. If a factory won't make changes to their specs, move on. Some have defined a market which excludes the USA and Canada. There are good certified parts from Leadshine, Schneider, Yaskawa, Oriental, Sanyo Denki, Mean Well and various big name cos like Eaton, Delta, Hitachi, Allen Bradley, Parker, Panasonic, etc. These will all fit the bill. You can find Chinese CE and N. American UL/CSA equivalent parts from these companies. If they will not let you send parts to them, have them install parts with US certified equivalent parts. Then you can swap them out and have an identical machine to the one they shipped to you. Local certification should cost you $500-1000 for a field inspection. In a commercial space you may need a Master electrician for hook up. This may be a legal requirement and be a red flag for your insurance company. You will need to consider electrical and building codes. Don't forget OSHA codes for flammable dusts. Grounding issues. Do you need a solid copper rod hammered into the ground? CNC machines are sensitive to EMF/RFI you will need to have filters on the machine, but also surge protection at the main panel. What other machines will you have in the same space? Do you need to divide up the space? How many air intakes and exhausts do you need? Did I mention how much of a pain in the neck this is? lol Dave

On Thursday, April 17, 2014 8:49:00 AM, Hannu Venermo <gcode.fi@...> wrote:

A router shop implies commercial.
I hope you have a very, very good plan, because mostly running without a toolchanger is not commercially viable.

Note all your competitors will have toolchangers, and industrial spindles, and mostly cast iron or steel frame machines.

Making commercial work mostly means you have your own product,
a viable distribution chain,
or you are economically competitive with current industrial machines, many of which are in one-man paid off amortised jobshops.

Any router can make "a product".
Just like a small 7x lathe can make a "piece".
One off.

A "router shop" also implies adverising, sales and associated ancillaries, like dust evacuation, permits if needed, insurance, etc etc.

On 17/04/2014 01:17, timgrede@... wrote:

I am opening a cnc router shop. I will be using rockcliff cnc design to start. I going to build a 4^th axis unit to make chess pieces and other things. I am looking to make a 5^th axis unite some day.

-- -hanermo (cnc designs)

Discussion Thread

2014-04-17 07:26:33 UTC Hi new here Hannu Venermo 2014-04-17 07:48:51 UTC Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Hi new here David Mannock 2014-04-17 14:41:20 UTC Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Hi new here 2014-04-25 14:26:41 UTC Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Hi new here 2014-04-25 14:26:44 UTC Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Hi new here