Re: Series II quill question...

Thanks Jon,
I think you may be on to something with the head bolts. I will get a
torque wrench and try some different pressure. I used a breaker bar
and may have over tightend them. I'll loosen the bolts and see how it
affects things. Man I'd hate to take this machine apart, its a
monster. But it will need to be done sometime so I can check for wear.
Thanks for all the tips to try also.
-Lee

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Jon Elson <jmelson@a...> wrote:
>
>
> indigo_red@q... wrote:
>
> > On my Series 2, previously I posted a question about spindle oil
> > types and where to inject it. Well it seems that the people who
> > I purchased it from didnt know either. I almost made the
> > mistake of putting a heavy oil in there, but someone earlier
> > definitly did put heavy way oil in the quill areas. I find that
> > when 'cold', its darn near impossible to move the quill
> > up and down without a lot of working 1st. Then after
> > it has moved some, its easier, but still takes a
> > lot of effort and feels damped by the oil.
> > The oil on the quill body feels sticky like Way lube.
>
> I have been using SAE # 10 oil in the spindle of my Bridgeport
> 1-J head. There are special spindle oils designed for this,
> but the Bridgeport manual specifies SAE #10. The Series-II 4-J
> uses an essentially similar quill, etc. so it may be similar.
> Now, the Series-II is listed in the catalog as using grease-packed
> bearings for 'lifetime' lubrication. That, of course, means the
life
> of the bearings, not the machine. The quill is lubricated by a
wick,
> probably with the SAE #10 oil as on the 1-J. If the original
> bearings have been changed, then they may require oil lube.
> One way to find out is to drop the spindle bearing 'cartridge' and
> see if the bearings have seals or not. If totally open, then likely
> these are NOT the permanently grease-packed bearings.
> To take the bearings out for a quick inspection, there is a setscrew
> in the side of the quill that secures the end cap. Remove the
setscrew,
> and unscrew the end cap carefully. When you get the cap off, the
> entire spindle and bearing set may drop out, or it may stay in
place.
> But, you will be able to look up and inspect the frontmost
> bearing, at least.
>
> As for a sticky quill, way oil may be too thick. Again, at least on
> the 1-J, SAE #10 is advised. You should run the quill all the way
> out and look for any chips that have been drawn into the space
> between the housing and quill. Also, the tightening of the nuts
that
> hold the head in place is critical to quill friction. On the 1-J,
there
> is a procedure to tighten all the nuts to 25 Ft-Lb, then again to
> 50 Ft-Lb, precisely. If the procedure is not followed, quill
binding
> is said to be the result. I suspect the torques may be different
on the
> 4-J, but I suspect proper securing of these nuts is also important
> to get the quill to travel smoothly. The quill is fitted to the
head
> with an extremely tight tolerance.
>
> The quill and bearing oil on the 1-J goes in an oil cup on the right
> side of the main housing. My catalog pictures do not show an
> oil cup anywhere on the 4-J, but they do specify quill lube is by
> an oil wick.
>
> Jon