Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] PC board making

Step 1. Clean the PC board with Joy dishwashing detergent and fine steel
wool. Rinse well in HOT water. ( the HOT water will let it dry quicker ) Now
let it dry fully. The Joy is important as it has an acid ( Citric) that
really helps clean the copper. If you have hard water and get water spots on
the boards when they dry, use some dishwasher Jet Dry to eliminate them in
your rinse water.

Step 2. Print the pattern on the Press-n-Peel Blue.

Step 3. Pre warm the PC board blank with your iron or a toaster oven. (
which I use for surface mount soldering anyway ) ( NOT a toaster oven you
cook food in !! )

Step 4. Iron on the Press-n-Peel according to the directions.

Step 5. Let the board cool completely.

Step 6. Peel the material off slowly from one corner and check the traces as
you peel. If you have bad adhesion, increase the iron temp and go back to
step 4. If you don't pull too much you can still re-iron this sheet.

It works just great for me. Step #1 is the most important step for any
transfer method of PC board etching though.

I almost never print a whole sheet at a time. I print the layer on a sheet
of standard paper, then cut a piece of Press-n-Peel large enough to cover
that area. Then tape it down over the printed area, then run it back through
the laser printer printing now on the Press-n-Peel instead of the paper. I
use some super thin double sided tape to stick the Press-n-Peel to the
paper. Just a small spot in 4 corners of the Press-n-Peel.

I don't use a clothes iron. I use what's called a "Monocote Iron" from the
model airplane hobby shop. Simply because I have a couple left over from my
model airplane days. But if I didn't, I'd go buy one just to do PC boards
with. Much easier than a clothes iron and the wife or significant other
won't gripe when you get it dirty.

You can also use this same technique with regular laser print ironed on the
board. The Press-n-Peel Blue gives you sharper edges and doesn't give you
trace width variations as bad as standard laser paper does. If you want to
try the cheap paper method, get paper as thin as you can run through your
printer. The finer the fibers the better. Then iron the paper down, then
soak the board in water until you can rub all the paper off the board
leaving only the toner behind on the board.

later,
Larry E.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian Wright" <Ian@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2001 4:33 AM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] PC board making


> Hi Larry,
>
> I tried this stuff but didn't have much success with it. Apart from having
> to use whole A4 sheets for even a small PC board to get them through the
> laser printer and the quite high cost of the product, I had a couple of
> failures where it didn't seem to adhere to the PC board completely -
perhaps
> I hadn't degreased quite well enough but it was an expensive lesson to
> learn. You also need to be a bit careful that you use a good brand - I
> acquired some 'surplus' stuff and the first sheet stuck to the heater
roller
> in the laser printer - took me the best part of a week to get it clean!!!
>
> Ian
> --
> Ian W. Wright
> Sheffield UK
> www.iw63.freeserve.co.uk
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> > If you have a laser printer, try the "Press-n-Peel" Blue stuff.
> >
> > http://www.techniks.com/press-n-peel.html
> >
>
>
>
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