Re: Leadscrews, PCB router experiment

Hi Bob,

I haven't done ANY yet! I bought an engraver 'V' bit, and I'm hoping to
use that. I like the idea of using a starter hole; that would be
"spotted" with the 'V' bit? I would be drilling the holes with the same
setup, not as a separate operation (just change the bits).

I'll check out the ME bits. Thanks,

Alan KM6VV


cncdxf@... wrote:

>
> Hi Alan,
> I use Kleinbauer's method for milling circuit boards. He
> told me to put a tiny dot in each PAD on my DXF file. During
> the milling process a starter hole is put in the center of each
> each pad. I then drill out the holes with my Dremel Drill press.
> Are you using Mechanical Etching bits from Think and Tinker?
> Kleinbauer sells
> info at:
>
> http://www.kleinbauer.com
>
> Check out what he is doing with his design.
>
> Bob
>
> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Jon Elson <elson@p...> wrote:
> > Alan Marconett KM6VV wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Jon,
> > >
> > > I have a 3/8" slab of aluminum, that might have to do for my
> base. I
> > > want to do more then drilling, I want to be able to mill traces as
> > > well. I'm planing on using a dremel tool.
> >
> > We've gone around with this a few times. I don't think the standard
> > Dremel moto-tool spindle is good enough for PC board drilling.
> > The problem is that you have to hit the 'target' quite accurately,
> or the
> > hole will cut through the side of the pad, rather than through the
> > middle, leaving a complete ring of copper around the hole. I even
> > have problems on my system, with the air bearing spindle motor,
> > high precision ground ballscrews, encoders delivering resolution
> > of .00005" (yes that's 50 uInches) and the physical stability of a
> > Bridgeport. If you mill the board, then the holes should at least
> > line up with the copper, but you still have to deal with alignment
> on
> > the other side, if you do 2-sided boards.
> >
> > Jon
>
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