Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Ball Screw Options

Frankly, $800 for a ballscrew sounds like a rip off to me -
you may call it "an expensive hobby".
Alex

----- Original Message -----
From: natchamp_87 <mark@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 11:06 AM
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Ball Screw Options


> OK, so lets say I've narrowed my options down to 2:
>
> 1)Basically a bolt in ballscrew kit for @ $800 buckies. Probably the
> least hassle and the best overall solution. Wouldn't I still have to
> deal with the ends of the screws to machine/adapt them for the motor
> couplings? If possible, I plan on retaining the manual cranks for
> manual operations.
> 2)Use molgice or poly resin to mold my own "ballscrew'esq" no
> backlash setup. Reidtool has some (what looks to be) higher quality
> acme screws, I could use them. My main question on this option is
> will the stuff hold up? Between the molgice and poly resin, which
> one is better? I guess its hard for me to imagine this stuff holding
> up to the stress/pressures for an extended period of time!
>
> Mark
> www.mark.hargett.com
>
> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Marv Frankel <dcdziner@p...> wrote:
> > Mark,
> > I contacted the factory a few weeks ago, and they passed
> my inquiry
> > on to their local rep, here in Southern California.. It turned out
> that
> > their rep was someone I had done business with over 20 years ago. We
> > discussed using their material to cast new nuts around acme screws,
> and the
> > scenario went something like this:
> >
> > 1. Bore out the threads of the original nut, and create several
> grooves
> > lengthwise inside the bored I.D.
> > 2. Machine two spacer washers to fit over the acme thread, with
> flanges to
> > fit inside the nut, to keep it centered.
> > 3. Clean the screw thoughroughly, and find the least worn area of
> it. Coat
> > this area with multiple layers of a release agent allowing them to
> dry
> > between layers, until you build up adequate thickness.
> > 4. Drill two holes into one side of the nut, and clamp the spacer
> washers in
> > place, with the assembly around the area of the release agent.
> > 5. Pump the mixed up material into one of the holes until it fills
> the
> > cavity, and comes out of the other hole.
> > 6. Allow this to cure for about 24 hours, clamp the screw ends, and
> break
> > the nut loose with a wrench. They sometimes work the nut back and
> forth with
> > the screw held in a lathe chuck, and even apply a particular type
> of lapping
> > compound, to loosen it up.
> >
> > I haven't done this personally, but my friend tells me that the
> same method
> > is used to repair nuts in quite a few aircraft related
> applications. I hope
> > this gives you a better understanding of the process. I'm going to
> try it
> > myself, when I do a CNC retrofit on my Enco mill.
> >
> > Marv Frankel
> > Los Angeles
> >
>
>
>
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