Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Ball Screw Options

----- Original Message -----
From: Peter <prenolds@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 12:36 PM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Ball Screw Options


> Mark,
>
> The ballscrew kits that McMaster sell are made by Rockford Ballscrew at:
> http://www.rockfordballscrew.com/index.html Rockford supplied me with
> a custom set of ballscrews for a Taiwanese made BP clone - I and many
> others on this list have been very happy with Rockford's products and
> their service is outstanding. Check the archive for more references to
> Rockford etc. Their website gives info on their standard X-Y retro kits
> which are around the $650 range, I think. Customs are around the $800
> range and they make the kits to your drawings. (If your drawings are
> wrong, it's your problem...) By comparison, Nook quoted me around $2700
> for an X-Y retro kit and Thomson quoted around $4000 for the same.
> Members in this group steered me to Rockford which I think is a
> fantastic value compared to the others.
>
> As others have said, you can spend as little or as much as you want in
> this (and most) hobbies. If other contributors think a particular price
> is a "rip-off" then change hobbies - there isn't anything to be gained
> by complaining. This group can help you find the best deals and the
> best bang for your buck but you have to remember you get what you pay
> for mostly.
>
> If you want to start with the Moglice or polyresin approach to get your
> machine going, that is a good start. If you then want to upgrade to
> ballscrews - you will already have a CNC'd machine and be much better
> informed before spending the $650+ on ballscrews.
>
> Personally, I can't imagine CNC'ing without ballscrews - but others have
> equally valid opinions and experiences. You have to take everyone's
> input and make up your own mind.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Cheers, Peter
>
> Jim Brown wrote:
>
> >Being considered a "bolt in" kit, i would assume that the ends are
already machined and its ready to just bolt in as is.Why dont you call up
Mcmaster CS and ask them what exactly would be involved in using this kit?
> >Whatever route you decide....welcome to the wonderful world of CNC.
> >And as a another member says quite often......"the more money you throw
at it, the easier it is!" I think that sums it up right there.\\
> >Good luck.
> >Regards,
> >Jim
> > natchamp_87 <mark@...> wrote:OK, so lets say I've narrowed my
options down to 2:
> >
> >1)Basically a bolt in ballscrew kit for @ $800 buckies. Probably the
> >least hassle and the best overall solution. Wouldn't I still have to
> >deal with the ends of the screws to machine/adapt them for the motor
> >couplings? If possible, I plan on retaining the manual cranks for
> >manual operations.
> >2)Use molgice or poly resin to mold my own "ballscrew'esq" no
> >backlash setup. Reidtool has some (what looks to be) higher quality
> >acme screws, I could use them. My main question on this option is
> >will the stuff hold up? Between the molgice and poly resin, which
> >one is better? I guess its hard for me to imagine this stuff holding
> >up to the stress/pressures for an extended period of time!
> >
> >Mark
> >www.mark.hargett.com
> >
> >--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Marv Frankel wrote:
> >
> >>Mark,
> >>I contacted the factory a few weeks ago, and they passed
> >>
> >my inquiry
> >
> >>on to their local rep, here in Southern California.. It turned out
> >>
> >that
> >
> >>their rep was someone I had done business with over 20 years ago. We
> >>discussed using their material to cast new nuts around acme screws,
> >>
> >and the
> >
> >>scenario went something like this:
> >>
> >>1. Bore out the threads of the original nut, and create several
> >>
> >grooves
> >
> >>lengthwise inside the bored I.D.
> >>2. Machine two spacer washers to fit over the acme thread, with
> >>
> >flanges to
> >
> >>fit inside the nut, to keep it centered.
> >>3. Clean the screw thoughroughly, and find the least worn area of
> >>
> >it. Coat
> >
> >>this area with multiple layers of a release agent allowing them to
> >>
> >dry
> >
> >>between layers, until you build up adequate thickness.
> >>4. Drill two holes into one side of the nut, and clamp the spacer
> >>
> >washers in
> >
> >>place, with the assembly around the area of the release agent.
> >>5. Pump the mixed up material into one of the holes until it fills
> >>
> >the
> >
> >>cavity, and comes out of the other hole.
> >>6. Allow this to cure for about 24 hours, clamp the screw ends, and
> >>
> >break
> >
> >>the nut loose with a wrench. They sometimes work the nut back and
> >>
> >forth with
> >
> >>the screw held in a lathe chuck, and even apply a particular type
> >>
> >of lapping
> >
> >>compound, to loosen it up.
> >>
> >>I haven't done this personally, but my friend tells me that the
> >>
> >same method
> >
> >>is used to repair nuts in quite a few aircraft related
> >>
> >applications. I hope
> >
> >>this gives you a better understanding of the process. I'm going to
> >>
> >try it
> >
> >>myself, when I do a CNC retrofit on my Enco mill.
> >>
> >>Marv Frankel
> >>Los Angeles
> >>
> >
> >
> >
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> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jobshophomeshop I consider this to be a
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subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.
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> OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
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aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if
you have trouble.
> http://www.metalworking.com/news_servers.html
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jobshophomeshop I consider this to be a
sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT
subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.
>
> NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
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> List Mom
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