Levelling large table
    Posted by
    
      Doug Harrison
    
  
  
    on 2000-12-22 13:07:25 UTC
  
  We are starting to draw up our router table and need a way to get the top dead-nuts level.  The plan is to use 60"X120"X.5" cast aluminum tool plate for the table and a square tubing steel weldment for the base.
Some ideas I've come up with:
1) Put a dam around the top rails of the base. Get the base fairly level and pour low viscosity epoxy on the top beams. Pull the dams off after cure and viola! - a perfectly level surface.
Problem: Even low viscosity epoxy is not very runny. It might not flow out level enough.
2) Put a mess of jacking screws in the top beams to level the table.
Problem: Actually, a mess of problems. I don't have a collimator. Jack screws are a pain. Jack screws don't transfer vibration well enough for the base to absorb it.
2.5) I suppose I could use epoxy to cast the table in place after the jack screws are set. I still need a collimator.
3) Just get the plate close and then flycut it flat with the router head. This is the method used by Multi-Cam and some other manufacturers, but they use phenolic for the table.
Problem: Seems a waste to buy tool plate and then whack off that nice ground surface with a relatively cheap spindle.
Any router table experts care to comment?
Doug Harrison
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Some ideas I've come up with:
1) Put a dam around the top rails of the base. Get the base fairly level and pour low viscosity epoxy on the top beams. Pull the dams off after cure and viola! - a perfectly level surface.
Problem: Even low viscosity epoxy is not very runny. It might not flow out level enough.
2) Put a mess of jacking screws in the top beams to level the table.
Problem: Actually, a mess of problems. I don't have a collimator. Jack screws are a pain. Jack screws don't transfer vibration well enough for the base to absorb it.
2.5) I suppose I could use epoxy to cast the table in place after the jack screws are set. I still need a collimator.
3) Just get the plate close and then flycut it flat with the router head. This is the method used by Multi-Cam and some other manufacturers, but they use phenolic for the table.
Problem: Seems a waste to buy tool plate and then whack off that nice ground surface with a relatively cheap spindle.
Any router table experts care to comment?
Doug Harrison
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Discussion Thread
  
    Doug Harrison
  
2000-12-22 13:07:25 UTC
  Levelling large table
  
    Bob Campbell
  
2000-12-22 13:35:18 UTC
  Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Levelling large table
  
    Smoke
  
2000-12-22 14:13:59 UTC
  Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Levelling large table
  
    ballendo@y...
  
2000-12-22 16:57:32 UTC
  re:Levelling large table
  
    R. T. Robbins
  
2000-12-22 17:41:33 UTC
  Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Levelling large table
  
    Doug Harrison
  
2000-12-22 18:25:33 UTC
  Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] re:Levelling large table
  
    Smoke
  
2000-12-22 20:57:15 UTC
  Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] re:Levelling large table
  
    dave engvall
  
2000-12-28 18:20:31 UTC
  Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Levelling large table
  
    Joe Fahy
  
2001-01-14 13:57:03 UTC
  Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] re:Levelling large table
  
    Doug Harrison
  
2001-01-15 10:32:52 UTC
  Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] re:Levelling large table
  
    Joe Fahy
  
2001-01-15 12:46:15 UTC
  Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] re:Levelling large table
  
    kem@b...
  
2001-01-16 05:44:31 UTC
  Re: re:Levelling large table
  
    Joe Fahy
  
2001-01-16 12:44:45 UTC
  Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: re:Levelling large table