Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: wooden table for a router

hi,

i have also considered them. textolit is some textile and epoxy, and
there is another one that is glass fiber reinforced epoxy, but both are
very expensive when bought from the manufacturer. if you find a good
surplus source . . .

vajk

Miroslav Pejic wrote:

>Hi everybody,
>I've seen many router's parts from machined massive aluminum plates.
>This gave me an idea: There are tables from "pertinax" (intended for
>ceramic
>fuses montage), or "textolyte" (textile impregnated with something, intended
>for
>mechanical parts, such as gear wheel).
>Does anybody have experience or opinion about this materials?
>Peja
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: turbulatordude [mailto:davemucha@...]
>Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 4:24 PM
>To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: wooden table for a router
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>For a desk-top routers, I am sure that wood will work great. my PCB
>drilling machine is MDF and does not have any side loads like a
>router would have.
>
>I seem to remember Les Watts mentioning his machine has something on
>the order of a few thousand pounds of side loading capability. seems
>a dull router bit on hardwood would test the strength of many
>machines.
>
>I'm thinking that a wooden table of roughly 10 ft by 6 feet would
>have potential warping problems with humidity as well as concerns
>about rocking from repeated accel and decell of the gantry.
>
>Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, Charles Knight <charles@i...>
>wrote:
>
>
>>>I friend was amazed at my CNC stuff and since he is a carpenter,
>>>
>>>
>he
>
>
>>>asked if I could make him one.
>>>
>>>I told him that a steel table is $$$ and he asked if anybody uses
>>>wood for the tables ?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>It's not yet done, but this is my new "hardware store"
>>
>>
>machine...it's
>
>
>>mostly MDF, but built with U channel construction. It's STIFF!
>>
>>
>Flex
>
>
>>will likely not be a problem...and would certainly not be a
>>
>>
>problem for
>
>
>>woodworking. Wood moves with humidity FAR more than the flex
>>
>>
>present in
>
>
>>this machine. (I've made some progress on it, since this photo was
>>taken. My router is mounted in a proper Z axis, the drive screws
>>
>>
>are
>
>
>>conected, and the motors are ready for a test run. I've also fully
>>supported the rails, for an exponential increase in stiffness.)
>>
>>http://members.ivwnet.com/~chuck@i.../cncfront.jpg
>>
>>This machine is a bit overbuilt for its capacity (18x24") but it
>>
>>
>should
>
>
>>be able to handle anything I throw at it.
>>
>>The table (I assume you mean the work surface itself) is made from
>>slatwall, a commercial style display system for retail stores. It
>>
>>
>has
>
>
>>channels cut into it, and will be used with a bolt and a flat
>>
>>
>washer as
>
>
>>an "integrated clamping system." Thanks to some rails beneath the
>>table's surface, it's held quite rigidly flat. While I've not
>>
>>
>measured
>
>
>>it, yet, I don't expect any significant variation from practically
>>perfectly flat. And, if there is, I can always "grind" it down
>>
>>
>with the
>
>
>>router, itself. Being an MDF product, it has no grain and will not
>>warp, except under its own weight, which is properly supported.
>>
>>There are also many others who have built machines using this basic
>>style of construction, who frequent a site called
>>
>>
>http://www.cnczone.com
>
>
>>in the "homebuilt wood routers" section. Lots of good ideas,
>>
>>
>there, for
>
>
>>people on a budget.
>>
>>The secret is going to be making it sufficiently stiff...not too
>>
>>
>hard,
>
>
>>if you use proper construction. Remember...wood is a reinforced
>>composite material, not terribly unlike fiberglass or carbon fiber.
>> *Use* it to your advantage! Keeping a 4x8' table stiff may be a
>>challenge, but it's definitely an achievable goal.
>>
>> -- Chuck Knight
>>
>>
>
>
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