Re: err/res circuit(updated picture)

Thanks for the input. I agree the 3 err/res pins can be tied
together, but if done that way I will not be able to see which axis
is faulted. If done seperatly, I can tell which is giving me
trouble. I can also place another LED on the outside of the control
box (not shown on diagram).

As far as I know ny brand new gecko's won't reset on thier own unless
the err/res goes high for 5 seconds. (correct me if I am wrong
someone)

For opening the DC side of the circuit, I considered that but that
would leave the caps charged so I would then need to deal with that.
I guess a resistor and an esr contact across the cap would work.

Sure, send me the drawing.

Eric

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "caudlet" <info@t...> wrote:
> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "cnchomeman"
> <cnchomeman@y...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > here is the new picture of what I want to do.
> >
> > http://www.e-zflight.com/files/ncnczi.jpg
> >
> > Eric
> >
> > --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "cnchomeman"
> > <cnchomeman@y...> wrote:
> > > Have a look at this circuit for the err/res of 3 drives.
Ignore
> > the
> > > 3 contacts from the fault relays in the estop rung. I will
move
> > > those and a contact from the esr to a new rung with another
> > > relay/contact going to the computer input. As drawn, a fault
> would
> > > shut down all power to the drives. Other than that, does it
look
> > ok?
>
>
> A preliminary look confirms it will probably do what you want. Me
> thinks there must be an easier way to do it though with fewer
parts.
> Seems that I remember the err/res is a high impedence input and you
> can tie all three of the axis's together and build one control that
> does the same as the three relays.
>
> Lets think about this: If you tied the three err/res pins together
> (provided all three axis DC feeds share the same ground) then if
any
> one of them went into fault it would shut down the other two. A
PNP
> Transistor driving a fault relay powered from the Gecko +5 (make
sure
> you use a flyback diode across the relay coil with cathode to the +
> side of the coil) then the NO relay switch contacts could be used
to
> trigger e-stop. I believe that the newer 320/340's will auto reset
> if the fault condition is cleared but if not, you could use a
> separate relay or an opto (NPN type) with the collector tied to +5
> and the Emitter to the err/res common connections. Activating the
> opto would put a logic high on the err/res pins and reset all three
> Gecko's Your 6 second timer could be an NPN transistor that is
> controlled by a 6 second one-shot (555 timer?).
>
> To review. All three Gecko err/res pins tied together. A PNP with
> the base tied to the common junction the collector to ground and
the
> emitter to either a relay coil or the cathode of the input of an
Opto
> isolator to provide a signal back to the PC for e-stop.
>
> For reset, a 6 second "one-shot" circuit driving either another
relay
> or the input of an opto and the relay contacts or opto NPN
providing
> the +5 from the Gecko to the common junction to reset all three.
>
> Anybody see anything wrong with this idea? Mariss?
>
> For the e-stop side of things you need to consider cutting the DC
> power to the motors (Gecko's) by opening the DC side of the circuit
> AFTER the filter cap. While turning off the AC will eventually
shut
> things down the filter cap will continue to supply DC power for a
> couple of (maybe critical) seconds. I have a large contactor
(4pole)
> that uses one set of its own contacts to "latch" itself on. I have
> the table limit switches wired in a normally closed configuration
> going to the coil of a 12VDC relay. The contacts of this relay are
> in series with the large contactor coil (as is the STOP) button on
> the front panel and the PANIC button on the machine. All of these
> use the Normally Closed contacts so a switch activation removes
power
> from the contactor coil. Anything that breaks the circuit to either
> the 12VDC relay coil OR the contactor Coil shuts off DC power
> immediately.
>
> I have a schematic tha I will be glad to send you.
>
> Tom