Re: Here we go again - more trouble -FIXED

Thanks Jeff,

I think there was a loose wire that came out and touched the
neighboring wire and damaged the drive initially. Then when I
replaced the drive there still seemed to be a problem because I think
the fuse blew again. I finally replaced the connector on the Gecko
and re conditioned the wire ands carefully replacing them and
installing a new capacitor. I got brave and reconnected everything,
and it all worked. Possible there was a bad fuse the second time
around or some wiring problem in the terminal connector block of the
Gecko. Guess I will never know for sure, but I am just glad to be
beyond it and able to make chips again...

Keith Clark

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "washcomp" <jeff@w...> wrote:
>
> Curious what the problem turned out to be?
>
> Jeff
>
> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Clark" <mail@t...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks everyone again, it is fixed!
> >
> > Keith Clark
> >
> >
> > --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Clark" <mail@t...>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks Andy, I am gradually learning the hard way...
> > >
> > > Keith Clark
> > >
> > > --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, Andy Wander
> <awander@v...>
> > > wrote:
> > > > And I will chime in, too.
> > > >
> > > > Disconnect the motor from a known good drive, take the fuse
out
> > on
> > > that
> > > > drive, and see if you still get voltage across THAT fuse
holder.
> > > >
> > > > Most people don't realize that in a circuit, if you "open"
the
> > > circuit, and
> > > > current stops flowing, you will measure the entire power
supply
> > > voltage
> > > > across the "opening". This is easily seen by applying
> Kirchoff's
> > > law, when
> > > > you will see that with no current flowing(open circuit) there
> > will
> > > be no
> > > > voltage drop across any of the things that usually drop
voltage
> > (by
> > > I*R), so
> > > > the entire Supply voltage must be "dropped" across the open
> > circuit.
> > > >
> > > > This is why switching the Neutral instead of the Hot in AC
> power
> > > wiring is
> > > > not a good idea, with the switch in the Neutral line, there
> will
> > bo
> > > one
> > > > White wire on the switch that is at 120VAC(or whatever your
> > color
> > > code/line
> > > > voltage is). Most people look at a white wire as "safe to
> > touch",
> > > but in
> > > > this instance it would not be safe.
> > > >
> > > > Andy Wander
> > > > Verrex Corporation
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: washcomp [mailto:jeff@w...]
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 2004 9:47 AM
> > > > To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Here we go again - more
trouble
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Keith:
> > > >
> > > > I picked up this part of the thread rather late so I
appologize
> > if
> > > > someone has suggested this before:
> > > >
> > > > The problem with troubleshooting a complete system is that a
> > > problem
> > > > with one part often affects other components making the
finding
> > of
> > > > the bug difficult.
> > > >
> > > > Try to break the system in half (thirds?). The problem is
> > either
> > > > with the motor or the drive or the wiring harness. We'll
> assume
> > > for
> > > > now that your drive is good (it's new after all) - oh hell,
> lets
> > > test
> > > > it anyway. Tie the drive to a known working motor and see if
> > all
> > > is
> > > > as expected. OK, now we know it's OK. Test the windings of
> the
> > > > motor for expected resistance as compared to your good motor
> > > > (assuming they are identicle). If the resistance you get is
> too
> > > > small to accurately measure, tie the coils in series and
> measure
> > > > across all of them. If this doesn't work (reading still too
> > > small),
> > > > take a battery and put the windings across it in series and
> > measure
> > > > the voltage across each winding. They should be the same
> (ohm's
> > > law
> > > > and all that). If this all checks out then the motor should
be
> > OK.
> > > >
> > > > If the motor is OK and the drive is OK, that leaves your
> > wiring.
> > > I'm
> > > > not sure how you made up the harness, but likely there's some
> > issue
> > > > (broken wire, shorted wire, mis-labled wire etc.).
> > > >
> > > > Might want to check wiring to the fuse holder from the power
> > supply
> > > > and the fuse/fuse holder while you're at it as long as
> > everything
> > > is
> > > > disassembled anyway. It's consivable that the issue is
there :-
> )
> > > >
> > > > Hope this helps,
> > > > Jeff
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Clark"
> > <mail@t...>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I thought that the voltage reading across the open fuse
> holder
> > > > > suggested a problem and did not know that that was normal.
> At
> > > any
> > > > > rate, I disconnected the motor and still found the same
> > voltage
> > > > > reading across the open fuse holder. So at that point I
> > reasoned
> > > > > that there must be something wrong with the connector from
> the
> > > > Gecko
> > > > > and replaced it. Then the reading across the fuse holder
> went
> > to
> > > > > zero! However, this was done without the capacitor
installed
> > > > across
> > > > > terminals 1 and 2. Does it seem possible that the
connector
> > > could
> > > > be
> > > > > bad? I did not see any stray strands of wire and could not
> > > measure
> > > > > any shorts between the terminals of the connector.
Possibly
> > the
> > > > > capacitor in place makes a difference? I did replace the
> > > capacitor.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks
> > > > > Keith Clark
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
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