RE: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Mounting Z axis DRO

Hi JohnH,

The group with all the details is

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/E-LeadScrew/

The November 2006 Circuit Cellar Magazine (www.circuitcellar.com) has an
article I wrote about the first prototype ELS. Source code, schematics etc.
are available from either the Circuit Cellar site or from the ELS Yahoo
group.

Rev 0.2 is almost finished. When done, source code, schematics and even
Gerber layout files will be posted to the Yahoo group. So anyone can build
it or even put it into production. Peter Homann in Oz has offered to do
pick and place assembly. Cost benefits to users will only happen when
someone (might be me) picks up the ball and makes at least 100 pieces.
There's a lot of surface mount stuff. I'm pretty sure I've managed to make
it all RHOS compatible.

John



Wireless CAN with the CANRF module now available.
http://www.autoartisans.com/products
Automation Artisans Inc.
Ph. 1 250 544 4950

> -----Original Message-----
> From: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of John Hansford
> Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 8:10 PM
> To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Mounting Z axis DRO
>
>
> John,
> That's very cool. You say prototype...is this something you'll
> possibly make into a kit? I know I'd like to have one.
>
> What about the plans or circuit diagram? Would you make that
> available?
>
> I've wanted to try something along these lines but haven't
> got to it.
>
> You could put some leds between the metal plates and the rods
> would have a soft glow to them. If you needed to make a lot
> of the rods, what you could do is simply drill the proper
> sized holes in a thick piece of UHMWPE, that kitchen cutting
> board material. Then put pieces of tape on one side covering
> the holes to make a cavity to pour common 2 hr. cure epoxy
> into. You can tint the epoxy with any oil based hobby-type
> paint that they use for model airplanes, etc. Don't use
> acrylic paint because it wouldn't cure properly. The 2 hr.
> epoxy cures harder than the 5 min stuff.
>
> The rods would pop out when cured.
>
> This is relative to cnc for making control buttons and E-stop
> buttons...throwing that in so I don't get off-topic with this.
>
> Cool,cool!
> John
>
>
> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, John Dammeyer
> <johnd@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi John,
> >
> > Never enough time or money. Here are two links to the
> keypanel for the
> > first prototype. The box that goes around this will have
> larger 1/2"
> > diameter holes and be the same thickness as the amount the
> extensions
> > protrude from the heatsink panel (for the 3Amp 55V
> Micro-stepper drive).
> >
> > Over the box cover will be the plastic membrane with the switch
> markings.
> > If I've done it right, depressing the plastic overlay will cause the
> buttons
> > to be pressed.
> >
> > http://www.pacificsun.ca/~john/ELS/KEYPANEL.JPG
> >
> > http://www.pacificsun.ca/~john/ELS/KEYPANEL2.JPG
> >
> > For the home hobbiest who likes building tools etc. this
> makes for an
> > inexpensive way of doing things. Just some time on the lathe with a
> parting
> > tool and some simple turning. I did them on an under powered
> Unimat. With
> > the extensions and the mounting of the LCD, the top of the
> LCD lines up
> > nicely with the encoder MPG knob and the buttons which makes it all
> one flat
> > surface.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > John Dammeyer
> >
> > > I'm going to have to figure out how to get one. The scales
> > > on the mini-mill have made all the difference in the world.
> > > I can't even imagine being without them now. I do want a nice
> > > big readout though.
> > >
> > > If you need keypad buttons, have you thought about casting
> > > them. It's easy. If they have a flat back, then it's even
> > > easier. Any size,shape,color you can imagine. Even transparent.
> > >
> > > Yes, it's that time of year when all the $$$ I thought I had
> > > now seems to have mysteriously disappeared.
> > >
> > > John
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
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