Re: Tapmatic 30TC/DC 1/2" Arbor

Peter, snips, inserts follow...

>In CCED, "Peter Homann" <groups@...> wrote:
>I'm planning to try and mount a Tapmatic 30TC/DC tapping head on a
>Taig CNC mill.

Using both at the same time or one after the other?

>My plan is to mount the head beside the standard mill head, using a
>bracket mounted to the T-Slots in the Mill head. The bracket will
>contain a couple of bearing blocks for 2 x 1/2 ID bearing.

Minimise the distance to the shaft. Sounds like you're planning to
mount the taphead to the right of the spindle? (opposite the motor?
I just went to look at one of or 2019's to get oriented<G>)

>The idea is that the bearing will hold the Tapmatic 1/2 arbor. a
>Taig 1/2" ID pulley block will then sit on top. I'll then run a
>large Taig Gates belt from the motor to the pulley.
>With this setup I'll get about the same Z clearance as the standard
>mill head. My only concern is that the tapping head will be off
>centre by a couple of inches.

A valid concern IMO.

>But then the Taig is a tough little beast.

True. but there may be an easier way...

<snip>

>Also any comments on my planned setup would be helpful.

Why not just take advantage of one of the Taig mill's major
strengths?

And mount an ALTERNATE head on the z axis dovetail?

That's what I'd do.
Then I could use a Sherline DC torque-y motor--with a digispeed<G>--
to power the tapmatic fully independant of the main spindle.
Shouldn't take more than few seconds to swap the heads/motors. (Add
an IEC "computer style "monitor" connector to the Sherline motor and
use a minidin for the digispeed connection.

In fact, you proabablt know "someone"<G> who could set up a
switching arrangement so you just put one or the other head into
place, flip a switch and go?<G>

This way you'd preserve access for the tapping head to the entire
machine travels...

You could mill your own second headstock or simply buy the main
extrusion from TAIG. Should be pretty inexpensive, and by simply
turning a bushing for the 1/2" ID bearing --you are planning to use
a double row type?--you should be able to fit that size tapmatic
inside the stock taig HS?

I'd bet that this setup will changeover faster and be more reliable
than the planned version.

Old style:
1) Remove cutting bit from spindle.
2) Loosen motor tension adjust screw.
3) Remove short belt. Add longer belt.
4) Adjust tension of long belt, and tighten tensioning screw, and
motor mount plate screw.
5) Tap.

Proposed New style:
1) Loosen head mount screw and swap heads.
2) Tighten new head screw.
3) Flip "2nd head" switch, or connect power and digispeed connectors.
4) Tap.

It gets better if you have to go back and forth, since you won't
have to remove one, then the other cutter/tap each iteration...

Hope this helps,

Ballendo

P.S. A second advantage is that the tap head is complete of itself,
and only needs a "strategically placed" dovetail plate (cheaply
available from Taig/Peatol) to set it up anywhere for a "2nd op"
tapping station. Once you do this, IMO you'll likely find you don't
really WANT to tap on the mill anymore!<G> (2nd Op tapping stations
exist next to mills and lathes in many shops... While one part is
beign machined the previous part is being tapped and deburred...