Home brew nuts: squeezing of, in vise-- Release Agent

I'm in a similar bind (ouch!) sloppy acme nuts and cheap screws purchased from Enco:

First, does anyone know if these screws are any good?
Assuming they pass muster, I have a plan in mind to cast a nut for the lead screws:
1.Get a section of pipe and two pieces of wood, and a section of the screw.
2. Drill two concentric holes into the wood pieces. The first, the o.d. diameter of the pipe is stopped about 1/3 thickness of wood. The second, the o.d. of the screw, extends through the wood form. This allows the pipe to be suspended concentrically about the screw to provide a form for casting.
3.Drill cross holes in the pipe for air to escape, material to be introduced, and structural reinforcement. These holes can be taped, as req'd.
4. Wrap the section of the screw with TEFLON PLUMBERS TAPE to facilitate removal.
5. Put the form together, taping the blocks and pipe as req'd.
6. Apply epoxy. I have been using J-B WELD brand, purchased at the local hardware store. This can be troweled directly to the screw before inserting the screw into the form and filling the form.
7. There will be voids around the end of the pipe, so make it long enough to trim. The nut can be mounted to a piece of angle with bolts and loaded against screw, once installed.

Now here are some considerations I'd be interested in hearing about:
I'm told the J_B Weld -- a steel reinforced epoxy--is reliable, but wondered could there be something better?
Some of the teflon remains on the threads, but eventually that will diminish. Is there an epoxy with a lower friction rating?
Also, would wire reinforcement, wound around the thread , add significantly to the strength, given the application?
Would there be problems with using copper pipe for the form, or braided copper wire for reinforcement? (I know this is a stretch)
I've thought of dusting the screw with .5 micron oxide abrasive powder to ease the friction caused by discrepancies in manufacture. An experimental first try nut could be used for this and then discarded.
Once the screw is polished in this way, I've considered a lubricant for the screw. My brother the mechanic suggested graphite, but cautioned against using graphite and oil together. I've thought of wax, because I'm a woodworker and that's what we use.
How about wax and graphite? Ideas?

CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com wrote:

> so "squeezing" the nut very carefully DOES work! (This trick works

best with

> Turcite nuts, with home-brew addition of "squeeze mechanism or

screw, etc.!)

>
> Jan Rowland

I just realized that since the taped hole in the vice would not
benefit from teh slice and clamp along the axis of the thread, it
could work on a line perpendicular to the axis.

One would still slice the casting somewhere so that the cut is about
1/2 to 3/4 thru the nut section, then, another cut on one of the
connecting legs. This would have the effect of the nuts, one after
the other, connected where there was no saw cut, and one of those
being split.

Threading the two towgether with a single bolt would allow one to
twist to create tention. or to remove the backlash. The BIG risk is
breaking the casting.... been there, done that !

On my HF vice, the taped hole is really sloppy !

A word of caution and a question.

Using some home brew epoxy to create nuts has the risk of really
locking up the screw.

Any ideas what is used or can be used as a home-brew release agent ?

Dave






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