Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Threads on a ball screw........

I don't know who made the ballscrews on my machine (it's an old Lobo CNC Jr.) but the screws on my machine were a dark greenish black rather than bright and the surface was harder than heck. I suspect they are nitrided, but I could only grind them. Although, I didn't have that cool induction heater thing, that's pretty nifty!

The edge of the screw channel simply busted off the edges of the carbide insert tooling I tried on it, or kinda dulled the edge while throwing an orange spark if I tried light cuts.

I have not cut enough ballscrews to be any sort of expert by any means, but a drywall router with a die grinder size stone on 1/4" shaft set up on the toolpost allowed me to grind the grooves out of the shaft in about 10 minutes plus setup time (masking the ways).- After that, I could cut the remaining (bright) metal. Of course, it did make a mess.

-Will


- Original Message -----
From: Roland Jollivet
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Threads on a ball screw........



Annealing the end of the ballscrew first is the obvious answer.

I think someone posted this before, but here's a video on the process;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzIsR4Mg158

Roland

On 26 February 2010 00:15, david@fignoggle - IMAP <david@...>wrote:

>
> it's the interrupted cuts that also create a bit of a problem. again,
> with proper insert tooling or lots of hss grinding, the material is
> easier to cut after the threads are removed. we use a ccmt 21.51
> style/size insert and the smaller radius seems to cut better than some
> of the larger triangle/trigon inserts we've tried.
>
> to get a nice, polished finish on the journals, you can leave a thou or
> so and spin up your lathe and use sandpaper belts of a desired width.
> usually, after 400 grit, your finish will be pretty nice.
>
> hope this helps!
>
> --
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>
>
> Steve Blackmore wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 16:33:39 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> > >What is this "sleeve goop" you speak of, something better than
> > threadlocker?
> > >
> > >Those ballscrews ARE nearly impossible to cut down or thread, makes a
> > good case for making yourself an inexpensive toolpost grinder. You
> > just have to cover your entire machine with plastic so you don't get
> > the grinding mess into your ways.
> >
> > I've turned and threaded ballscrews without any problems? They are only
> > usually 4140 or 4150 alloy steel or 1050 Carbon steel. You need to take
> > deep roughing cuts to get through the surface hardness with Carbide
> > insert tooling. Something like Iscar IC3028 inserts are good for that.
> > Once through the surface they are no trouble at all with normal insert
> > tooling.
> >
> > Steve Blackmore
> > --
> >
> >
> >
> > --
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