Threads on a ball screw - annealing and tempering thereof...

You really need to heat it until you hit the Curie point -- it will become
nonmagnetic. Glue a small magnet onto a stick for testing.

Get a couple pounds of vermiculite from a garden supply store and a small
metal (five gallon) wastebasket. When you are done heating the screw, put
it into the center of your vermiculite and that will keep it very hot for a
day or more -- it needs to cool down very slowly.

To re-temper, heat to Curie point again and quench in either saturated salt
water or oil (use a length of 3" iron pipe held vertically and be prepared
for the fire - do a dry run first). The steel will now be unusably brittle.

Heat it up to about 450 in a toaster oven (use aluminum foil to block off
the crack in the door or torch a hole in the side) and let it soak at this
temperature for at least one hour per inch of thickness. Back into the
vermiculite for a couple hours and you are good to go...

Dave

> -----Original Message-----
> From: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dan Mauch
> Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 8:54 AM
> To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Threads on a ball screw........
>
> Yes, I too have used the annealing method and it works on
> most ballscrews but not all. I heat the ends to a straw color
> then slowly let it cool. Machining is much easier but Like
> Steve mentioned you still have to take a heavy cut to get
> under the case hardening. Then it machines pretty nice.
> Dan Mauch
> economical 3D scanner software and kits
> low cost stepper and servo motors.
> cases for Gecko drives
> kits and assembled 3-4 axis drives
> www.camtronics-cnc.com
> www.seanet.com/~dmauch
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Roland Jollivet
> To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 8:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Threads on a ball screw........
>
>
>
> Annealing the end of the ballscrew first is the obvious answer.
>
> I think someone posted this before, but here's a video on
> the process;
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzIsR4Mg158
>
> Roland
>
> On 26 February 2010 00:15, david@fignoggle - IMAP
> <david@...>wrote:
>
> >
> > it's the interrupted cuts that also create a bit of a
> problem. again,
> > with proper insert tooling or lots of hss grinding, the
> material is
> > easier to cut after the threads are removed. we use a ccmt 21.51
> > style/size insert and the smaller radius seems to cut
> better than some
> > of the larger triangle/trigon inserts we've tried.
> >
> > to get a nice, polished finish on the journals, you can
> leave a thou or
> > so and spin up your lathe and use sandpaper belts of a
> desired width.
> > usually, after 400 grit, your finish will be pretty nice.
> >
> > hope this helps!
> >
> > --
> > --
> > Spindle Lock for your Rong-Fu 45, Lathemaster, Sieg X3 <
> > http://www.spindle-lock.com>
> > CNC, Plans/Kits, 8x12 Lathe, Mini-Mill, How-Tos
> <http://www.fignoggle.com>
> > Sieg X3/Super X3 Mill Information, HF/Enco Coupons
> <http://www.superx3.com
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Steve Blackmore wrote:
> > >
> > > On Tue, 23 Feb 2010 16:33:39 -0500, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >What is this "sleeve goop" you speak of, something better than
> > > threadlocker?
> > > >
> > > >Those ballscrews ARE nearly impossible to cut down or
> thread, makes a
> > > good case for making yourself an inexpensive toolpost
> grinder. You
> > > just have to cover your entire machine with plastic so
> you don't get
> > > the grinding mess into your ways.
> > >
> > > I've turned and threaded ballscrews without any
> problems? They are only
> > > usually 4140 or 4150 alloy steel or 1050 Carbon steel.
> You need to take
> > > deep roughing cuts to get through the surface hardness
> with Carbide
> > > insert tooling. Something like Iscar IC3028 inserts are
> good for that.
> > > Once through the surface they are no trouble at all
> with normal insert
> > > tooling.
> > >
> > > Steve Blackmore
> > > --
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > This message has been scanned for viruses and
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> >
> >
> >
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> to reach it if you have trouble.
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> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jobshophomeshop I consider
> this to be a sister site to the CCED group, as many of the
> same members are there, for OT subjects, that are not allowed
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>
> NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY
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