Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] New guy with questions

Alan, GM4T and KM6VV,
I have deposited a "hand tapper" drawing/pic made from odds and ends in the
Sherline Group's Files section in Folder "RichD's....."
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sherline/files/Rich%20D%27s%20Views/
An easy shop tool to put together.
You are already a member of Yahoo and it won't a sec to join Sherline to
access the files.
RichD KT4IZ

Alan Marconett KM6VV wrote:

>
> GM4T from KM6VV,
>
> Tapping a hole in CRS?
>
> Drill the appropriate hole size for a tap, use a tap wrench to hold the
> tap. Assuming you're drilling hole in drill press or mill, you can use
> the drills quill after drilling to get the tap lined up.
>
> In the Sherline mill, I often chuck the tap in the drill chuck I used to
> drill the hole, and with the chuck's taper loose enough so that it is
> about to come out, I bring tap in the chuck down in Z until it enters
> the work. Then I can *BY HAND* rotate the chuck to engage the hole, and
> start the threads. Use thread cutting oil, and turn the tap in a turn
> or two, then back it out 1/2 turn. After the first two turns or so, you
> can back the Z axis out of the way, and continue to tap by hand. Clear
> all the cuttings by backing the tap completely out of the hole
> occasionally, especially if the tap is small, or the threads are fine.
> If you "feel" the tap get harder to turn, it's an indication that the
> cuttings are binding up the tap. Too much, an the tap will likely
> break!
>
> On a normal drill press, something similar can be done. Assuming you've
> just drilled the hole; If the chuck is one that can be similarly
> "loosened" like the Sherline example above, it is an easy way to get a
> good square start of the tap. If it can't, then examine the back end of
> the tap. Does it have a small hole, or a little point? If you have a
> hole, then a small similarly sized steel rod with a 60 degree or so
> point on the end can be chucked in the drill press, an with the tap in a
> tap wrench, centering and slight pressure can be brought to bear on the
> backside of the tap, keeping it properly square to the work. A small
> rod with a "cup" end can be made to push against a tap with a point on
> the backside, or you'll find that even a twist drill of similar size to
> the tap's shank can be chucked BACKWARDS, and the drill's back end can
> be used to press against a tap's flat or drilled back end (held in the
> tap wrench). Do the usual one or two turns into the work, back out 1/2
> turn to cut the thread, use cutting oil. The chuck can be backed out of
> the way after a few turns of the tap into the work, as previously
> mentioned.
>
> I might mention that there are blocks made to guide a tap that can be
> purchased or made, and tapping jigs, etc. as well.
>
> That's one question, Hope this helps! Any yeah, I've tapped MANY a hole
> with a small crescent wrench (don't tell anyone!).
>
> Name here is
> Alan, KM6VV
> Central coast California
>
> P.S. You'll also fine the Sherline list (also on Yahoo) to be a good
> source of answers to these questions; as a lot of "Amateur Machinists"
> start out on small Sherline equipment.
>
> gm4ta@... wrote:
> >
> > Hi I'm new to this group and I have a few questions that may seem so
> > basic it will probably be ignored. But here goes . . .
> >
> > How do I tap a hole (in plain cold rolled steel) with a tap? Could I
> > do this with a wrench?
> >
> > What is the standard (or at least most popular) program for CNC
> > machines? Just like how AutoCAD is the standard for CAD drawing.
> >
> > What is a good price guide that machining services charge?
> >
> > I have been making CAD drawings and 3D models of a part I might have
> > to make if it isn't available for buying later.
> >
> > Thanks!
> > -GM4T
> >
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> > bill,
> > List Manager
> >
> >
> >
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>
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