Re: SeriesII Quill Zaxis CNC addon ideas: Like Jon E's?

Hi Marv,
My machine's a duplicate of Tim's. Its CNC already on all axis'
except the quill. You're right about the weight.
-Lee

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Marv Frankel <dcdziner@p...> wrote:
> Tim
> If you size your motor properly, with the right gearing, is
it really
> necessary to convert the knee to ballscrew? It seems to me, with
that much
> weight on the screw, the original acme screw would have virtually
no
> backlash. Gravity would take care of it. If we could figure out
how to put
> the same amount of tension on the x and y axes, we would probably
never have
> to concern ourselves with their backlash. Aren't we doing almost
the same
> thing with pre-loaded nuts?
>
> Marv Frankel
> Los Angeles
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Goldstein" <timg@k...>
> To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y...>
> Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 1:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] SeriesII Quill Zaxis CNC addon
ideas: Like
> Jon E's?
>
>
> > I vote for number 4.
> > 1 - That is how the machine is designed to work
> > 2 - It is very accurate with no backlash (amazing what ground
ballscrews
> > driving 1500 lbs or so of knee will do for you)
> > 3 - It already moves fast enough to mess your britches
> > 4 - The point is to produce parts not machine modifications
> >
> > Tim
> > [Denver, CO]
> > Sherline products at Deep Discount (now Mach1 CNC controller too)
> > www.KTMarketing.com/Sherline
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
> > > I was wondering if, in the future, it would be feasible to add
> > > a ballscrew mechanism to move the quill of my older seriesII
model;
> > > where the knee is the Z axis. The quill at one time had
> > > the air-driven-spindle-wizard-rotary-depth-stop-thingy(
technical
> > > term ) which I removed.
> > > The mill has a larger 4.25 diameter quill that is a
little 'sticky'
> > > to move. A previous owner put way lube thru the quill I think
at
> > > some point. It has has gotten easier over time as it works out.
> > >
> > > I remember seeing a picture of Jon's setup where a 'clamp' is
> > > attached at the end of the quill with a ballscrew to move it.
I also
> > > saw on Ebay a mill just like mine, but they had some weird
ballscrew
> > > setup on top of the head that appeared to work straight down
the
> > > drawbar entry hole. My quill doesn't have the drawbar hole
that goes
> > > all the way through to the tool holder. Its a quickchange type
40
> > > taper. Options I'm guessing at are:
> > > 1) Using the depth bar that moves in parallel to the quill (
sturdy
> > > enough? Offset force issues? ).
> > > 2) A clamp on the quill and several ballscrews to drive it
up/down.
> > > 3) Something through the center of the quill. Probably
disassembly
> > > and modification needed to the quill.
> > > 4) Just use the Knee and shut up :-) most likely what will
occur.
> > >
> > > Thanks for any ideas.
> > > -Lee
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
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