Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] SeriesII Quill Zaxis CNC addon ideas: Like Jon E's?

Tim
If you size your motor properly, with the right gearing, is it really
necessary to convert the knee to ballscrew? It seems to me, with that much
weight on the screw, the original acme screw would have virtually no
backlash. Gravity would take care of it. If we could figure out how to put
the same amount of tension on the x and y axes, we would probably never have
to concern ourselves with their backlash. Aren't we doing almost the same
thing with pre-loaded nuts?

Marv Frankel
Los Angeles

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Goldstein" <timg@...>
To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 1:37 PM
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] SeriesII Quill Zaxis CNC addon ideas: Like
Jon E's?


> I vote for number 4.
> 1 - That is how the machine is designed to work
> 2 - It is very accurate with no backlash (amazing what ground ballscrews
> driving 1500 lbs or so of knee will do for you)
> 3 - It already moves fast enough to mess your britches
> 4 - The point is to produce parts not machine modifications
>
> Tim
> [Denver, CO]
> Sherline products at Deep Discount (now Mach1 CNC controller too)
> www.KTMarketing.com/Sherline
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> > I was wondering if, in the future, it would be feasible to add
> > a ballscrew mechanism to move the quill of my older seriesII model;
> > where the knee is the Z axis. The quill at one time had
> > the air-driven-spindle-wizard-rotary-depth-stop-thingy( technical
> > term ) which I removed.
> > The mill has a larger 4.25 diameter quill that is a little 'sticky'
> > to move. A previous owner put way lube thru the quill I think at
> > some point. It has has gotten easier over time as it works out.
> >
> > I remember seeing a picture of Jon's setup where a 'clamp' is
> > attached at the end of the quill with a ballscrew to move it. I also
> > saw on Ebay a mill just like mine, but they had some weird ballscrew
> > setup on top of the head that appeared to work straight down the
> > drawbar entry hole. My quill doesn't have the drawbar hole that goes
> > all the way through to the tool holder. Its a quickchange type 40
> > taper. Options I'm guessing at are:
> > 1) Using the depth bar that moves in parallel to the quill ( sturdy
> > enough? Offset force issues? ).
> > 2) A clamp on the quill and several ballscrews to drive it up/down.
> > 3) Something through the center of the quill. Probably disassembly
> > and modification needed to the quill.
> > 4) Just use the Knee and shut up :-) most likely what will occur.
> >
> > Thanks for any ideas.
> > -Lee
> >
> >
> >
>
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