Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re:DRILL ROD FOR LINEAR WAYS

I realize this is not on topic, but can be useful in this process.

When I want to harden a piece of heat treatable steel I heat it until a
magnet will not stick to it. Then I quench it in water or oil. Cherry red
is not definite enough, but the magnet is. The old machinist that taught me
said when metal looses it magnetism it will accept it's maximum hardness.

If you want to temper it, reheat it to 500 (or the specs for the grade of
steel being tempered) use a heat stick. Any good steel spec book will give
the heat treat range. He taught me to use different shades of blue/black to
determine the temp.. Then drop it in a bucket of Portland cement and let it
sit overnight. I use two plates of metal to separate the cement so that the
part will go deep into the cement and be completely buried when I pull out
the sheets of metal. Many times the parts will still be warm the next day.


Bruce

-------Original Message-------

From: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
Date: 02/28/05 14:43:31
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re:DRILL ROD FOR LINEAR WAYS


--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Hampson"
<r_.hampson@t...> wrote:

> Hi Allan,
>
> Over here in the UK we can obtain a specific steel bar that is

centerless

> ground to fine tolerances usually 0.5 thou 0.0005" that can be

hardened by

> heating to cherry red and quenching in water.

There are three common varieties. We call them something hardening
to represent what medium is used to harden them.

one is water, one is oil and the other is air. Each has it's own
properties. All move a little when heated so the soft stuff you buy
is nice for a lot of stuff. but it is too soft for prolonged use with
ball slides. Then again, it is cheap enough to replace a couple times.

Dave








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