Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re:DRILL ROD FOR LINEAR WAYS

This problem is easy to over come....don't tell her!!

roger

Original Message:
-----------------
From: Bruce Pigeon bwpigeon@...
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 06:31:27 -0600 (Central Standard Time)
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re:DRILL ROD FOR LINEAR WAYS



Quite true, but I have been told that it's better to let it kool in the
oven. I am sure that there are women will let their husbands do that. I
know mine won't. So for those who have a wife like mine we still have an
alternative. Portland cement.

Bruce

-------Original Message-------

From: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
Date: 02/28/05 21:00:13
To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re:DRILL ROD FOR LINEAR WAYS

There's a simpler, cleaner method on the tempering. First, clean off
whatever
carbon, or other gunk might be on the steel. Then, turn your kitchen oven
on,
"bake", set it to 350 d3egrees F., set the steel on the rack, and come back
two
hours later. Remove the steel, and let it cool. Done this way, the steel
retains its hardness, while the brittleness is relieved. No fuss, no bother

no Portland cement.

Bill

On Mon Feb 28 16:30:10 2005 Bruce Pigeon wrote:

>I realize this is not on topic, but can be useful in this process.
>
>When I want to harden a piece of heat treatable steel I heat it until a
>magnet will not stick to it. Then I quench it in water or oil. Cherry red
>is not definite enough, but the magnet is. The old machinist that taught
me
>said when metal looses it magnetism it will accept it's maximum hardness.
>
>If you want to temper it, reheat it to 500 (or the specs for the grade of
>steel being tempered) use a heat stick. Any good steel spec book will give
>the heat treat range. He taught me to use different shades of blue/black to
>determine the temp.. Then drop it in a bucket of Portland cement and let
it
>sit overnight. I use two plates of metal to separate the cement so that
the
>part will go deep into the cement and be completely buried when I pull out
>the sheets of metal. Many times the parts will still be warm the next day.
>
>
>Bruce
>
>-------Original Message-------
>
>From: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
>Date: 02/28/05 14:43:31
>To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re:DRILL ROD FOR LINEAR WAYS
>
>
>--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Hampson"
><r_.hampson@t...> wrote:
>> Hi Allan,
>>
>> Over here in the UK we can obtain a specific steel bar that is
>centerless
>> ground to fine tolerances usually 0.5 thou 0.0005" that can be
>hardened by
>> heating to cherry red and quenching in water.
>
>There are three common varieties. We call them something hardening
>to represent what medium is used to harden them.
>
>one is water, one is oil and the other is air. Each has it's own
>properties. All move a little when heated so the soft stuff you buy
>is nice for a lot of stuff. but it is too soft for prolonged use with
>ball slides. Then again, it is cheap enough to replace a couple times.
>
>Dave


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OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto:
aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if
you have trouble.
http://www.metalworking.com/news_servers.html

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jobshophomeshop I consider this to be a
sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for
OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.

NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM.
DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
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