Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re:DRILL ROD FOR LINEAR WAYS

I'm right there with you on that one Wally. Annealing is slow cooling allowing the molecules to re-align themselves and tempering is halting the flow of molecules abruptly and holding them in a misaligned state. This is a science and trade within itself. The best way to alter the characteristics of steel is call a heat treater. Any that cater to machine shops will pick up from your house and for like $15 they do it exactly like you want plus sandblasted, straightened and delivered the next day. Isn't worth toiling with.

Ron

cnc_4_me <cnc4me@...> wrote:


I think you a two are talking about two different things. Heating
metal to red is heat treating. Heating metal to 350 deg for a couple
of hours with a slow cooling is stress relieving. The way i
understand it.


Wally




--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Pigeon"
wrote:

> Quite true, but I have been told that it's better to let it kool

in the

> oven. I am sure that there are women will let their husbands do

that. I

> know mine won't. So for those who have a wife like mine we still

have an

> alternative. Portland cement.
>
> Bruce
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
> Date: 02/28/05 21:00:13
> To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re:DRILL ROD FOR LINEAR WAYS
>
> There's a simpler, cleaner method on the tempering. First, clean

off

> whatever
> carbon, or other gunk might be on the steel. Then, turn your

kitchen oven

> on,
> "bake", set it to 350 d3egrees F., set the steel on the rack, and

come back

> two
> hours later. Remove the steel, and let it cool. Done this way,

the steel

> retains its hardness, while the brittleness is relieved. No fuss,

no bother

>
> no Portland cement.
>
> Bill
>
>
> On Mon Feb 28 16:30:10 2005 Bruce Pigeon wrote:
>
> >I realize this is not on topic, but can be useful in this process.
> >
> >When I want to harden a piece of heat treatable steel I heat it

until a

> >magnet will not stick to it. Then I quench it in water or oil.

Cherry red

> >is not definite enough, but the magnet is. The old machinist that

taught

> me
> >said when metal looses it magnetism it will accept it's maximum

hardness.

> >
> >If you want to temper it, reheat it to 500 (or the specs for the

grade of

> >steel being tempered) use a heat stick. Any good steel spec book

will give

> >the heat treat range. He taught me to use different shades of

blue/black to

> >determine the temp.. Then drop it in a bucket of Portland cement

and let

> it
> >sit overnight. I use two plates of metal to separate the cement

so that

> the
> >part will go deep into the cement and be completely buried when I

pull out

> >the sheets of metal. Many times the parts will still be warm the

next day.

> >
> >
> >Bruce
> >
> >-------Original Message-------
> >
> >From: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
> >Date: 02/28/05 14:43:31
> >To: CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re:DRILL ROD FOR LINEAR WAYS
> >
> >
> >--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Hampson"
> > wrote:
> >> Hi Allan,
> >>
> >> Over here in the UK we can obtain a specific steel bar that is
> >centerless
> >> ground to fine tolerances usually 0.5 thou 0.0005" that can be
> >hardened by
> >> heating to cherry red and quenching in water.
> >
> >There are three common varieties. We call them something hardening
> >to represent what medium is used to harden them.
> >
> >one is water, one is oil and the other is air. Each has it's own
> >properties. All move a little when heated so the soft stuff you

buy

> >is nice for a lot of stuff. but it is too soft for prolonged use

with

> >ball slides. Then again, it is cheap enough to replace a couple

times.

> >
> >Dave
>
>
> --
>

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