Re: How to convert a Grizzly 1006 Mill to CNC

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, hannu <hvenermo@...> wrote:

>
> Your mill (all typical medium milling machines) is about 0.02 mm

+/- in

> absolute precision, 0.01 mm +/- in resolution unless its damaged.

You

> probably have about 2-3 x that in backlash.
>
> Expensive ? this depends.
> You should use offset mounts and timing belts and pulleys for

various

> reasons - if you need better your price range and needs are 10x

higher,

> and you would know it. They are the easiest, best cheapest way

unless

> you want sub 0.01 mm precision, at which point your costs and
> difficulties are 10x higher. They will help with mid-band

resonance,

> set-up, and hunting. They are the best option, unless you need a

very

> very stiff set-up. If you do, you will need tighter nuts, and many

many

> other things, some of which are expensive. I don´t recommend it. Do

the

> cnc with belts first, when you get experience you can always change

it

> if you want, the belts were cheap. The only thing wrong with belts,

is

> if you are looking for less than 0.01 mm backlash and accuracy, in

which

> case you will want hard mounts.
>
> At that point, you would also like set-up jigs, you need to change

the

> bearings and bearing mounts in both ends, make a new, stiffer yoke

(3x

> more mass), preload the bearings, go to bigger motors and direct

drive,

> probably servos, probably ball-screws, error-map the screws, about

3000

> - 4000 $ in parts. This quality bearings will be 100-200 each,

mounts

> are 400 $ if bought, so 1600 for 4 etc. etc. And you still might

use

> belts, just bigger and tighter and more accurate.
>
> Whats expensive for you ?
> Your cheapest best solution is nema23 hi-quality motors 425 ozin

(2 for

> 110$), 2:1 belts (6$ belts, 50$ pulleys), 24 v psu (surplus),
> non-isolated basic breakout board (12$), surplus pc (free), mach3

trial

> (free), kit drivers about 2 amps 24 volts (30$ each, 60$) change

nothing

> else.
> About 1 week to fab motor mounts etc, use surplus flexible ethernet

for

> cabling.
> It will work, quite well, for 240 $. Not expensive, imho.
>
> You can use it to do work as good as the machine is capable of, 10x
> faster than manual, with excellent repeatability.
>
> If you want a recommendation for whats the best choice, how much to

you

> want to spend, ballpark ? If you can possibly afford it, isolated

bob

> (120), gecko 201s drivers (180) and you are good to go. Total 360

$.

> Still not expensive.
> If you want a very good choice, 48 psu (100), gecko 203v drivers

(260),

> newer pc (2.5 ghz plus, 300), total mach3 w. wizards (230), total

1060.

> This would be for "real " production use, easy and very reliable.
>
> If you need specific reasons, ask, but you can take it as a given

that

> the cheapest solution is already really good and will work. When I
> started, 5 years ago, there were, and still are, people saying they
> build everything for under 100 $. Just let them say it, and ignore

the

> fact that a decent chuck (m2 precision) is 40$, and decent endmill

3 mm

> 10$ with collet etc...
>
> The one thing most people don´t do, is turn the motors around, and

then

> put them under the axes to save space, which costs nothing extra

and

> works better and they are less in the way. I recommend it, if

possible.

>
> FWIW - Today I built a cnc rotary table as a lathe (mill?)

accessory

> (heavy 12 kg, 6", strong, about 120) with kit driver (30), sonceboz
> swiss modern motor (20$) for 190 $. I will now go hook it up and

hope

> for no smoke ...
>
> > Hello,
> >
> > I spent the better part of 2 hours looking for a kit or HOWTO on

this

> > subject and I found out that it is very expensive, not an easy
> > project and or simply very little information about it.
> >
> > I am looking information of others that have done this conversion
> > with this machine or like machines/clones etc. Let me also say

that I

> > can make all the motor mounts, motor coupling etc and I have

motors

> > and a controller and some software products to drive it.
> >
> > I recall a mod that was done that simply coupled the motors in

place

> > of the cranks and others use offset mounts with drive belts. Pros

and

> > cons would good information to have too.
> >
> > I dunno for sure how accurate the mill is in a manual process is

in

> > the first place, so that is a concern going that route. I

personally

> > do small projects like motor mounts, transmission mounts etc for
> > motorcycles. However I would like to perform pocketing too for

things

> > like right angle gear boxes etc. So eventually I would think

ground

> > precision screws are in order. I am no expert at this so I wanted

to

> > drop a few lines to the experts.
> >
> > Many thanks in advance.
> >
> > Todd

Hi hannu
Sorry for a newbie breaking in but what is "48 psu" and where can i
find it and what does a breakout board do and where can I find those?
Hope I am not posting wrong here but picking up knowledge where ever
I can find it for my own build.
regards
perolalars