Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] stepper wiring

In a message dated 03-Apr-01 16:47:31 Central Daylight Time, mabw@...
writes:

> Thanks to all who replied to my questions! The motors I have are slo/syn
> HS50 ,very old but will have to do until I can afford some bigger ones (has
> anyone got any ?) Getting closer to success! Can I ,when I get them wired
> up test them without having any software? Sounds like a dumb question but
> like can I just connect some wires(more) to see if they rotate????
> Thanks
>

Mark! As it happens, I can respond emprically to your questions: The
HS-50 was the "old number" for a MO-92-size, FD08, I think. MO-92 FD08
Stepper-motor by Superior Electric (firm now owned by Warner/Dana, and I
think they are even changing the motor-name-plates to read "Warner
Electric"?) Many years ago, in a galaxy far, far away, I somehow got the
idea that I could cobble home- brew CNC gear, and had the opportunity to buy
two HS-50 steppers (size-34) for much, much less than the then-current price
of the MO-92 FD08's. I built a small CNC lathe with 'em, and it worked, and,
last I saw, it was still working ('84). Since, I built another with the
"current" unipolar M0-92 FD08's, and that was fine. I think a
just-noticeable increase in torque for same current. OH! On the first
machine, I used S.E.'s own "R/L driver" and a home-brew 24 VDC/15A supply.
On the second one, I built my own drivers using 20th Century 29HGA IC's and
TIP-140 transistors, on custom-etched PTH PC-boards. Much nicer than the
"proprietary" things from the '50's-era from S.E. But on the most-recent two
machines, I am using KLM-092 bipolar steppers (same size, less power, but
TWICE the torque!), and S.E.'s own "bipolar-chopper"
driver/power-supply-in-one-box. SUPER thing! But costs an arm and a leg!
No, more!

The color-code, as I recall (been 22 years, now!) is same as "current" MO-92:
Black=common, red, red/white; white=common, green, green/white. You might
use a couple of 3-volt batteries (two pairs of #6 dry-cells, each pair in
series) if you are very wealthy. For perhaps same $cost, you can find a 0-20
VDC @ 10 amp "lab supply" and turn it down to 3 V; or, use the usual 6 or 7
ohm/100 W. "ballast resistors" (sorry, don't recall which R it was) in series
with the commons-to-postive, and set the DC at 24 VDC (Still will use about 8
amp per motor!). Then, using a pair of SPDT ("form C") switches to "ground"
either of the two remaining winding-leads per-winding, you can "toggle" the
motor. Flip one switch,then the other, and so on. That will tell you if
they are "working".

Confused? I am! E-mail me, if you need to know what the [deleted] I am
talking about!

Jan Rowland, Troll


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