Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Milling Glass

I used to work with HF, among a whole host of other chemicals I don't ever
want to see again. It's nasty stuff. There's nastier out there, but it's
nasty stuff.

In addition to the precautions listed below, I'd throw in a good fume hood
with a sill to contain spills.

Tom

On Fri, 13 Apr 2001 e.heritage@... wrote:

> Hydrofluoric acid is the most evily, dangerous acid you can buy. At high
> concentrations it will burn it's way through glass quickly. You must keep it
> in containers specific to HF. If you spill the acid on yourself it is very
> capable of passing through your skin and into your bones. If it does it can
> quite rapidly decalicify your bones. And then where would you be? I was
> looking at buying some a while back and the precautions you should take
> include heavy chemical resistant gloves, a visor for your face, some sort of
> lab coat to cover your front (But we all have one already right?) and a dust
> mask / respirator incase the acid should be aerosolerised (I don't know if
> that's a real word but it sounds good and that's all that matters). I was
> checking how much 98% something acid would be and for 25ml it was about £15.
> Obviously if your using concentrations that are near 1%HF the gloves are
> about the only thing you need. I think it's anything above 45% and you need
> to use specific HF handling plastics. Buy it pre-diluted and then you don't
> have to worry. If you buy it raw remember it's acid to water, not water to
> acid. I think one of the other bits you need for handling it is some sort of
> alakli to neutralise it should you spill it on yourself. Diluted caustic
> soda or bleach would work I suppose. If you spill it on the floor in great
> amounts you should try to mop it up then neutralise the remains because it
> effffferveses when you neutralise it quickly (I think) and could form an
> aerosol cloud of the acid. In low concentrations it is more dangerous in a
> way because you can spill the acid on your skin and not realise it's being
> absorbed for a good few minutes (Or even hours according to safety cards).
> Among other things you can make chemical weapons with it... so don't go
> ordering too much or they'll be a knocking on your door.
>
> Ever worried that he is being secretly indoctrinated by aliens in league
> with the government living in his duvet,
> John
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dave engvall" <dengvall@...>
> To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 2:37 AM
> Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Milling Glass
>
>
> > diazden wrote:
> >
> > > John;
> > >
> > > I have seen beautifully etched glass panels and they were done with
> acid (cant remember
> > > which one) the only problem is that glass etched that way is very easy
> to stain
> > > regards
> > > Mariano
> >
> > Glass etches with HF (hydrofluoric acid) ;it is a weak acid but causes
> exceeding nasty burns which tend to follow nerve tissue and
> > can take months to heal. The etching is fine grained and not very deep.
> > That is why most people use the NaF/sulfuric acid paste. Used to be
> considered safe for Girl Scouts to use in craft projects. In
> > todays world I make no claims. Too many attorneys and not enough sand.
> >
> >
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > >
> > >
> > > "
> > >
> > > >
> > > > kleinbauer@... wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Hi Andrew,
> > > > > I was hoping to find away to etch glass at a hobby
> > > > > level. My friends own a glass company. They do custom store
> > > > > fronts. Right now they have an artist who comes in and does
> > > > > letter heads etched on the glass windows. The artist suits
> > > > > up in a booth, he uses glass beads shot out of a sand blaster.
> > > > > He uses masking tape and a razor to lay out the designs.
> > > > > Someday I hope to build a device simular to a ink jet printer.
> > > > > Instead of ink It will be shooting glass beads. Righ now I am
> > > > > still at work redrawing my circuit board. I want my homemade
> > > > > milling machine to etch the board and put in starter holes.
> > > > > The first set of boards worked great, except for manual hole
> > > > > layout and drilling process. I want to be able to supply
> > > > > circuit boards for my kits. I am predrilling the hole
> > > > > locations with the mechanical etching bits.
> > > > >
> > > > > John
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > >
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