Re: Milling Glass

Hi All,
I think I will just replace my Dremel rotory tool and put
in a Dremel Engraver. I can turn it on and off with an opto relay.
I just rembered drawing on drinking glasses years ago with the tool.
I see now they have diamond and carbide tips for the engraver. I gave
my engraver away to a friend so he could label handcuffs at the local
jail. I hate when that happens!

John

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Tom Benedict <benedict@a...> wrote:
> I used to work with HF, among a whole host of other chemicals I
don't ever
> want to see again. It's nasty stuff. There's nastier out there,
but it's
> nasty stuff.
>
> In addition to the precautions listed below, I'd throw in a good
fume hood
> with a sill to contain spills.
>
> Tom
>
> On Fri, 13 Apr 2001 e.heritage@b... wrote:
>
> > Hydrofluoric acid is the most evily, dangerous acid you can buy.
At high
> > concentrations it will burn it's way through glass quickly. You
must keep it
> > in containers specific to HF. If you spill the acid on yourself
it is very
> > capable of passing through your skin and into your bones. If it
does it can
> > quite rapidly decalicify your bones. And then where would you be?
I was
> > looking at buying some a while back and the precautions you
should take
> > include heavy chemical resistant gloves, a visor for your face,
some sort of
> > lab coat to cover your front (But we all have one already right?)
and a dust
> > mask / respirator incase the acid should be aerosolerised (I
don't know if
> > that's a real word but it sounds good and that's all that
matters). I was
> > checking how much 98% something acid would be and for 25ml it was
about £15.
> > Obviously if your using concentrations that are near 1%HF the
gloves are
> > about the only thing you need. I think it's anything above 45%
and you need
> > to use specific HF handling plastics. Buy it pre-diluted and then
you don't
> > have to worry. If you buy it raw remember it's acid to water, not
water to
> > acid. I think one of the other bits you need for handling it is
some sort of
> > alakli to neutralise it should you spill it on yourself. Diluted
caustic
> > soda or bleach would work I suppose. If you spill it on the floor
in great
> > amounts you should try to mop it up then neutralise the remains
because it
> > effffferveses when you neutralise it quickly (I think) and could
form an
> > aerosol cloud of the acid. In low concentrations it is more
dangerous in a
> > way because you can spill the acid on your skin and not realise
it's being
> > absorbed for a good few minutes (Or even hours according to
safety cards).
> > Among other things you can make chemical weapons with it... so
don't go
> > ordering too much or they'll be a knocking on your door.
> >
> > Ever worried that he is being secretly indoctrinated by aliens in
league
> > with the government living in his duvet,
> > John
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "dave engvall" <dengvall@e...>
> > To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y...>
> > Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 2:37 AM
> > Subject: Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Milling Glass
> >
> >
> > > diazden wrote:
> > >
> > > > John;
> > > >
> > > > I have seen beautifully etched glass panels and they were
done with
> > acid (cant remember
> > > > which one) the only problem is that glass etched that way is
very easy
> > to stain
> > > > regards
> > > > Mariano
> > >
> > > Glass etches with HF (hydrofluoric acid) ;it is a weak acid but
causes
> > exceeding nasty burns which tend to follow nerve tissue and
> > > can take months to heal. The etching is fine grained and not
very deep.
> > > That is why most people use the NaF/sulfuric acid paste. Used
to be
> > considered safe for Girl Scouts to use in craft projects. In
> > > todays world I make no claims. Too many attorneys and not
enough sand.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > "
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > kleinbauer@j... wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Hi Andrew,
> > > > > > I was hoping to find away to etch glass at a
hobby
> > > > > > level. My friends own a glass company. They do custom
store
> > > > > > fronts. Right now they have an artist who comes in and
does
> > > > > > letter heads etched on the glass windows. The artist suits
> > > > > > up in a booth, he uses glass beads shot out of a sand
blaster.
> > > > > > He uses masking tape and a razor to lay out the designs.
> > > > > > Someday I hope to build a device simular to a ink jet
printer.
> > > > > > Instead of ink It will be shooting glass beads. Righ now
I am
> > > > > > still at work redrawing my circuit board. I want my
homemade
> > > > > > milling machine to etch the board and put in starter
holes.
> > > > > > The first set of boards worked great, except for manual
hole
> > > > > > layout and drilling process. I want to be able to supply
> > > > > > circuit boards for my kits. I am predrilling the hole
> > > > > > locations with the mechanical etching bits.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > John
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > >
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