Re: Question:Parallel interface with Gecko 201 drivers

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the kind comments on the driver/PS box. I was saying that a
breakout box is nice and convenient, but I didn't use one. I use
"removable pins" (the crimp type) for the DB25 connector, and run the
wires (as you've noticed) direct. A terminal strip or two aids in the
construction also. The removable pins allow each wire length to be
figured, a pin crimped on, and routed individually (or at a later
date). Yeah, you could probably do it with a solder cup type connector,
but a pain to move wires if you decide you need to. Hay, I could even
change the pinout from "MaxNC step/dir" to that of another product (EMC)
if I wanted to! Humm....

Also not visible (added since the pix) are 470 uF caps on each of the
Gecko's.

I'm now using the SSS (solid state switch) to turn my spindle on and off
by program control. Nice! I couldn't use it on the old Sears/Sherline
AC/DC motor control, it tore my video display (20" away) up!

You are correct on the cables. All 25 conductors, 1:1 (no null
modems!).

Alan KM6VV
P.S. I just walk over to Weird Stuff to pick up a $7 cable!

jagco1998 wrote:

>
> >Some cables are designed on the cheap for serial, and don't
> have all of 'em.<
> Kayla, what he's saying is that you need to get a cable that is of
> a "straight through" design, this way all of the pins on the DB25
> are connected to all of the pins on the other end.
> They can be had for relitively cheap. I think Wally world has them
> for around 20 bucks.
> Alan ...thats a nicely designed power supply/driver box.
> One question though...where is the breakout board you speak of?
> Because i only see your Gecko drivers connected to the DB25
> connector.Or am I just missing something?
> Though it is a very well thought out compilation. Kudos!
>
> Jim
>
> In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Alan Marconett KM6VV <KM6VV@a...> wrote:
> > Hi Kayla,
> >
> > In an ideal printer cable, the control and data lines would EACH
> have
> > their own pair, the "other" wires being grounds. Initially, you
> should
> > be fine with a standard parallel cable. Just insure that it has
> all 25
> > conductors! Some cables are designed on the cheap for serial, and
> don't
> > have all of 'em. Use a breakout box at the Gecko end, or as I
> did, a
> > connector with removable contacts, which is wired into the
> driver/ps box
> > (I posted ix, driverP). So, you don't NEED to make up a cable at
> all!
> >
> > Alan KM6VV
> >
> > Kayla Sanders wrote:
> > >
> > > I hope that I dont have aproblem with RFI. But in the case that I
> > > do, I just want to be prepared.I see nothing wrong with that.
> > > Im here to LEARN, as most people are. And I still have
> unanswered
> > > questions that Im hoping that someone will help me with.
> > > Is anyone willing to answer these questions the best that they
> can??
> > > Preferrably without the sarcasm.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "Tim Goldstein" <timg@k...> wrote:
> > > > Glad you have not gotten around my machines to tell them how
> their
> > > wires
> > > > must me. The parallel cables I have used and the ones I have
> cut
> > > apart
> > > > (cheapest I can find in both cases) are not twisted pair at
> all.
> > > >
> > > > You are taking some best practices guidelines and solid
> solutions
> > > IF you
> > > > have noise problems and trying to make it the requirements for
> > > wiring.
> > > > In most cases it just ain't that critical.
> > > >
> > > > Tim
> > > > [Denver, CO]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > While using a breakout board is probably the best way to go,
> i
> > > find
> > > > > myself wanting to make my own cable for the pure
> satisfaction of
> > > it
> > > > > and the learning experience..
> > > > > Heres what i know about cabling from parallel port.....
> > > > > The wires must be in twisted pairs.
> > > > > The step/dir wires must not be in the same twisted pair.
> > > > > The length should be no more than 12 feet in length.
> > > > > Any power derived from the controller source must be seperate
> > > from
> > > > > the step/ dir wires. Prefferably as far away as possible.
> > > > > The wires must be of a shielded kind.
> > > > >
> > > > > My question is this....
> > > > > If the step/dir wires can not be put in the same twisted
> pair,
> > > then
> > > > > what should a twisted pair consist of?
> > > > > Two step in a pair or two dir in a pair? Or what?
> > > > > If you were to make your own cable(eveen though you probably
> > > would
> > > > > opt not top do so) How would arrange the wires??
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks again
> > >
> > > Addresses:
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> Addresses:
> FAQ: http://www.ktmarketing.com/faq.html
> FILES: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO/files/
>
> OFF Topic POSTS: General Machining
> If you wish to post on unlimited OT subjects goto: aol://5863:126/rec.crafts.metalworking or go thru Google.com to reach it if you have trouble.
> http://www.metalworking.com/news_servers.html
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jobshophomeshop I consider this as a sister site to the CCED group, as many of the same members are there, for OT subjects, that are not allowed on the CCED list.
>
> NOTICE: ALL POSTINGS TO THIS GROUP BECOME PUBLIC DOMAIN BY POSTING THEM. DON'T POST IF YOU CAN NOT ACCEPT THIS.....NO EXCEPTIONS........
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