Re: loose quill

Dave,

The moglice people sell a paste wax which they claim will result
in .0001 clearance per "layer". Putting this on the quill,and then
injecting should do the trick. BUT...

The idea about the clamp screws seems most "appropriate", given the
cost and inherent accuracy of the drill press. (can't be that good,
or it wouldn't have the sloppy fit in the first place!)

Another similar idea is to place a few nylon or brass tipped
setscrews (two vertical rows, about 90 degrees apart) to bear on the
quill, and pre-load it against one side of the bore. this would be
VERY quick to implement, and if it didn't work, would not mess
anyhting up permanently... I drill,tap, and put a screw with handle
(shear-loc knob) on the left side of the HF drill presses to make up
for the lack of a quill lock. (the dog-point screw rides in the slot
which keeps the quill from rotation. Doing it here means that if any
burrs are raised, they will not affect the quill travel.)

Anyway, to keep this on topic; if we think about the problem as how
to make a sloppy spindle (from a cheap machine) better, so that we
can use it for CNC...

Then why not use stainless steel or brass shim stock???

It comes in the thickness(es) needed, and the 1/2 width "tape" type
would seem easy enough to secure with cyanoacrylate or epoxy. Won't
work if the bore is not truly round tho...

Hope this helps,

Ballendo


--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, Marv Frankel <dcdziner@p...>
wrote:

> Dave,
> Don't forget one thing. All of those castable materials

require a

> release agent to keep from sticking to one of the surfaces. If you

try to

> pump the material in to fill the gap, without the release agent

inside the

> quill, (almost impossible) you're going to eliminate all of the

play, but

> your quill will not move. It will almost be welded solid. Have you

tried my

> previous suggestion of contacting an engine rebuilder yet?
>
> Marv Frankel
> Los Angeles
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <davemucha@j...>
> To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 20, 2003 9:30 AM
> Subject: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: loose quil
>
>
> > Interesting idea.
> >
> > seems the thin gap, less than 2 mil makes it hard to get the

stuff in

> > there. With a thin gap, I cannot see how to fill the void
> >
> > Also it would seem that any type of epoxy or other plastics would
> > provide a slipery surface and fill the gap. Since there is no
> > pressure on the material and no grit it should have a long service
> > life.
> >
> > Coating the quill before filling is important too.
> >
> > so,it seems like I would wind up with a smooth bore or solid

part.....

> >
> > any ideas on how to inject the stuff evenly ? sounds like a

grouve

> > would allow for the material to be carried around the quill, and

then

> > just pressurize until it comes out along the circumference.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, "vrsculptor
> > <vrsculptor@h...>" <vrsculptor@h...> wrote:
> > > --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, JanRwl@A... wrote:
> > > > In a message dated 1/19/2003 6:19:23 PM Central Standard Time,
> > > > david_mucha@y... writes:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > I thouhgt about chrome/nickle plating or some sort of
> > > > > electroplating. I am also considdering just using some shim
> > > stock.
> > > > >
> > > > > The frame is cast iron and the quill is steel.
> > > > >
> > > > > any ideas ?
> > > >
> > > Dave,
> > > How about one of the castable (is that a word?) plastic bearing
> > > materials like turcite?
> > >
> > > Roger S
> >
> >
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