Re: Lithium Grease

Jim,

I guess it goes without saying that for MDF, a vaccum extractor is a
good idea.
If you can control the dust as its being generated, not only will
your lungs thank you for it, but it sounds as if your bearings will
too !
I think MDF is still considered a carcinogen as it contains
formaldehyde

Chris

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, Jymmm <jymmm@y...> wrote:
>
> Hi Carl & Randy,
>
> Thanks for the feedback, much appreciated.
>
> Someone suggested Charcoal Lighter Fluid and I gave that a shot.
> It works surprisingly very well for removing all of the grease.
>
> 64 ounces, unscented, from the grocery store: $4
>
> Carb cleaner/engine degreaser/brake cleaner
> 15 ounces, pretty stinky, and has a 6 foot stream: $5
>
>
> Originally I was planning on using motor oil, then someone told me
that the
> detergent will break it down quickly if ever hit with water. I
also needed to
> get some type of grease for my linear rails (zirk fittings) and I
wanted
> something I could get easily and lithium grease was the only thing
readily
> available from most of the autoparts stores, so that's what I went
with.
>
> I use it for both the rails and the ballscrews. It may not be the
best thing,
> but I rather use something a little less perfomance wise that I
can pick up
> on a sunday if need be.
>
> I have been cutting a lot of MDF lately, the dust does catch in
the grease at
> the ends of the rails/ballscrews and sorta clumps up. At the end
of the day,
> I just vacuum these lil lumps up and toss on a lil extra grease if
needed.
>
> MDF dust goes EVERYWHERE, par for the course, so I just make sure
I put
> enough fresh grease on as needed. If this happens too often, maybe
I'll have
> to look at an alternative lube. Teflon is a dry lube in a spray
can, but just
> doesn't sound right for ballscrews.
>
> Anyhow... thanks again,
> Jim...
>
>
>
>
>
> > Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 18:26:08 -0000
> > From: "carlcnc" <carlcnc@y...>
> > Subject: Re: Lithium Grease
> >
> >
> > > Jim...
> > try brake cleaner[aresol] run back and fortha a few times,
> > occasionally spraying a bit of the cleaner in front of the
nut,then hold
> > a brass brush on screw,followed by rag,if it is real stubborn
use a
> > small tip blow gun aimed at the leading end of the ballnut.
> > always works for me!
> > if you cut much mdf or pitchy woods,do NOT use wd40 as lube!
> >
> > Carl
>
> >
_____________________________________________________________________
___
> > Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 16:56:24 EDT
> > From: cnc002@a...
> > Subject: Re: Re: Lithium Grease
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 10/15/2005 2:30:23 P.M. Eastern Daylight
Time,
> > carlcnc@y... writes:
> >
> > if you cut much mdf or pitchy woods,do NOT use wd40 as lube!
> >
> > Carl
> > >
> >
> > Actually, NEVER use WD40 as a lube. It will actually "dry out"
the
> > natural
> > lubricating properties of many metals. It is designed as a
> > cleaner/penetrant
> > and temporary lubricant only. I have seen machines costing as
much as a
> > Million dollars shut down over a few months because the maint.
people were
> >
> > cleaning the screws and/or guide rails on them with WD40 and
thought that
> > was all
> > they needed in the way of lubricant. Over the past 20+ years I
have been
> > doing industrial woodworking machinery installation, repair,
service etc.,
> > plain
> > old 30W non-detergent motor oil or "turbine oil" ( you can
often find the
> > "turbine oil" in small plastic squeeze applicators at auto
stores or
> > appliance
> > parts stores ) work the best where oiling is required.
> >
> > Well, my 2 cents worth, hope that helps some.
> >
> > Oh, and again, mineral spirits should cut that Lithium grease,
You might
> > need to do some brushing but be careful, NEVER, use a steel
brush, always a
> >
> > brass or just stiff bristled one.
> >
> > Randy A.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
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