Re: burning Gecko drive

Thanks everyone for all the input!. Now I have a hope of at least
wiring safely! I will try the battery-bulb trick tonight...

I am using a 75v 16 amp DC power supply.

thanks again!

Keith

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com, Les Newell <les@l...> wrote:
> Hi Keith,
>
> It sounds like your motor must be numbered differently to mine.
OK,
> heres a safe if slightly long-winded method of finding the correct
windings:
>
> Get a car battery and two 12V bulbs. The bulbs should be the same
rating
> and somewhere between 21W and 55W. Make up two test leads as below.
>
> battery + -----------------------
>
> battery - -------bulb------------
>
> Connect the + of one test lead to a motor terminal - it does not
matter
> which one. Now try the other end of the test lead on all the other
> terminals until the bulb lights. Make a note of the terminal
numbers and
> try turning the motor. It should be fairly hard to turn. If it
turns
> easily then it has a shorted winding. Try all the other terminals.
The
> bulb should only light with one of the terminals. If it lights
with more
> than one you motor has an internal short. Now repeat until you
have
> found all 4 windings.
>
> You have probably already done this with a test meter so you are
> hopefully only confirming what you already know.
>
> Leave the lead connected to one of the windings and connect the
other
> test lead to one of the other windings. One of three things should
happen:
>
> 1) The motor shaft turns slightly with an audible click and the
motor is
> hard to turn by hand. You have found two opposite windings. These
should
> be OK to connect to the Geckos. To confirm this is correct,
reverse one
> of the test leads. The shaft should jump to s new position and
still be
> hard to turn.
>
> 2) The motor shaft does not turn or jumps then returns to it's
original
> position. The shaft is easy to turn by hand. These two windings
are part
> of a pair and are cancelling out. Do not connect these two to the
Gecko
> - you will may kill it.
>
> 3) The motor shaft does not turn or jumps then returns to it's
original
> position. The shaft is harder to turn by hand than before. These
two
> windings are part of a pair and are adding together. Do not
connect
> these two to the Gecko. To confirm these windings are part of a
pair,
> reverse one of the test leads. The shaft should now be easy to
turn.
>
> In cases 2) and 3), move the second test lead to another winding
until
> you find two opposite windings. Connect 1 winding to A+ and A- on
the
> Gecko and connect the other winding to B+ and B-. If the motor
turns the
> wrong way then swap over A+ and A-.
>
> What supply voltage are you using? These motors are high
inductance and
> leed a high voltage to work well. I am getting 100IPM rapids at
75V.
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> theokspindoctor wrote:
> > Jon, I think I understand that the 210 will just make more steps
and
> > not fewer steps. I will keep working with the 201s for now. I
hope
> > you might look over this.
> >
> > Ok, just burned out my Gecko drive. the motor looks like this
> >
> >
> > 3 2
> > 5 8
> >
> > 6 7
> > 1 4
> >
> > 2-8 one winding
> > 3-5 "
> > 6-1 "
> > 4-7 "
> >
> > Originally it was wired as below to the Gecko by my installer.
It
> > worked that way but the maximum rapid I could get was 20 ipm
> > phase A+ to 2
> > phase A- to 1
> > phase B+ to 8
> > phase B- to 6
> >
> > I rewired it tonight as below and it burned it up. Why?
> > phase A+ to 1
> > phase A- to 6
> > phase B+ to 2
> > phase B- to 8
> >
> > Les Newell said his were wired as below and worked fine for
him.
> > Shouldn't his have burned as well? It looks the same as mine
above.
> > phase A+ to 2
> > phase A- to 8
> > phase B+ to 1
> > phase B- to 6
> >
> > Anyone have any suggestions as to how it should be wired?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Keith Clark
> > clarkfamily5@c...
> >